Totally Squared Scarf/Wrap

A great project to work on the go...knitting square by square to make this amazing scarf/wrap!

Very loosely based on the traditional Log Cabin quilt block, designer Mags Kandis worked this wrap/oversized scarf square by square in the easy and satisfying mitered-square method of color knitting. Finished Size: About 16½" (42 cm) wide and 66" (168 cm) long, after blocking.

Yarn: Sportweight (#2 Fine). Shown here: Rowan Kidsilk Haze (70% super kid mohair; 30% silk; 230 yd [210 m]/25 g): #597 jelly (lime green; A), #596 marmalade (orange; B), #583 blushes (rose; C), #600 dewberry (lavender; D), #582 trance (medium blue; E), #578 swish (gold; F), #581 meadow (pale blue; G), #595 liqueur (dark red; H), and #588 drab (grey; I), 1 ball each.

NeedleS: Size 7 (4.5 mm). Note: a 16" (40 cm) bamboo circular needle is recommended. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions: Marker (m); tapestry needle

Backward Loop Cast on *Loop working yarn and place it on needle backward so that it doesn’t unwind. Repeat from *.

Small square measures 2¾" (7 cm) square; large square measures 5½" (14 cm) square, both after blocking.

Stitch Guide:

Small Square (worked on 24 sts):

Row 1: (WS) K12, place marker (pm), k12. Even-numbered

Rows 2–20: (RS) Knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, slip marker (sl m), k2tog through back loops (tbl), knit to end—2 sts dec’d; 4 sts rem after completing Row 20.

Odd-numbered Rows 3–21: Knit.

Row 22: K2tog, k2tog tbl—2 sts rem.

Use left needle tip to lift second st on right needle over the first as if to BO—1 st. Cut yarn, draw tail through rem st, and pull tight to fasten off.

Large Square (worked on 48 sts):

Row 1: (WS) K24, pm, k24. Even-numbered Rows 2–44: (RS) Knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, k2tog tbl, knit to end—2 sts dec’d; 4 sts rem after completing Row 44.

Odd-numbered Rows 3–45: Knit.

Row 46: K2tog, k2tog tbl—2 sts rem. Use left needle tip to lift second st on right needle over the first as if to BO—1 st. Cut yarn, draw tail through rem st, and pull tight to fasten off.

First Half:

Block 1: With A, CO 24 sts. Work Small Square (see Stitch Guide), working Rows 1–9 with A and Rows 10–22 with B.

Block 2: With I, CO 12 sts, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along side edge of Block 1 as shown in diagram below—24 sts. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with I, Rows 6–15 with D, and Rows 16–22 with F.

Block 3: With F, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top of Block 1, then use the backward-loop method (see box) to CO 12 sts—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with F, Rows 6–13 with E, and Rows 14–22 with H.

Block 4: With C, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top of Block 2, then 12 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 3—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–3 with C, Rows 4–9 with I, and Rows 10–22 with A.

Block 5: With G, CO 24 sts, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along right sides of Blocks 2 and 4—48 sts total. Work Large Square (see Stitch Guide), working Rows 1–9 with G, Rows 10–17 with H, Rows 18–23 with C, Rows 24–33 with A, and Rows 34–46 with F.

Block 6: With D, CO 24 sts, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 5—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–5 with D, Rows 6–15 with B, Rows 16–23 with E, Rows 24–31 with F, and Rows 32–46 with C.

Block 7: With H, CO 24 sts, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top of Block 6—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–9 with H, Rows 10–19 with D, Rows 20–27 with A, Rows 28–33 with G, and Rows 34–46 with B.

Block 8: With E, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along lower half of left side of Block 7, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across first half of top edge of Block 5—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–9 with E and Rows 10–22 with C.

Block 9: With I, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along left side of Block 8, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across second half of top edge of Block 5—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with I, Rows 6–11 with B, and Rows 12–22 with D.

Block 10: With F, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along top half of left side of Block 7, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along top edge of Block 8—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with F, Rows 6–11 with H, and Rows 12–22 with D.

Block 11: With G, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along left side of Block 10, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along top edge of Block 9—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–9 with G and Rows 10–22 with F.

Block 12: With E, pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along left sides of Blocks 11 and 9, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along top edges of Blocks 4 and 3—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–7 with E, Rows 8–13 with A, Rows 14–25 with C, Rows 26–35 with B, and Rows 36–46 with G.

Block 13: With I, pick up and knit 24 st evenly spaced along top edge of Block 12, then use the backward-loop method to CO 24 sts—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–9 with I, Rows 10–17 with F, Rows 18–25 with D, Rows 26–33 with H, and Rows 34–46 with G.

Block 14: With B, pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along top edges of Blocks 10 and 11 , then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 13—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–7 with B, Rows 8–15 with E, Rows 16–27 with A, Rows 28–35 with D, and Rows 36–46 with C.

Block 15: With C, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along second half of top edge of Block 7, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along lower half of right side of Block 14—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–11 with C and Rows 12–22 with A.

Block 16: With I, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along first half of top edge of Block 7, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 15—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with I, Rows 6–13 with F, and Rows 14–22 with E.

Block 17: With F, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along top edge of Block 15, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along top half of right side of Block 14—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–9 with F and Rows 10–22 with H.

Block 18: With G, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 16, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 17—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–11 with G and Rows 12–22 with B.

Block 19: With C, use the backward-loop method to CO 24 sts, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top edges of Blocks 18 and 17—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–7 with C, Rows 8–17 with I, Rows 18–27 with E, Rows 28–35 with A, and Rows 36–46 with B.

Block 20: With D, pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 19, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 14—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–9 with D, Rows 10–17 with B, Rows 18–25 with H, Rows 26–35 with F, and Rows 36–46 with I.

Block 21: With C, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along lower half of left side of Block 20, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across first half of top edge of Block 13—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–11 with C and Rows 12–22 with F.

Block 22: With A, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along left side of Block 21, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across second half of top edge of Block 13—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with A, Rows 6–11 with D, and Rows 12–22 with B.

Block 23: With G, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along top half of left side of Block 20, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 21—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–11 with G and Rows 12–22 with D.

Block 24: With E, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along left side of Block 23, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 22—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–11 with E and Rows 12–22 with A.

Block 25: With F, pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top edges of Blocks 23 and 24, then use the backward-loop method to CO 24 sts—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–9 with F, Rows 10–17 with B, Rows 18–27 with I, Rows 28–37 with E, and Rows 38–46 with C.

Block 26: With E, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across second half of top edge of Block 20, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along lower half of right side of Block 25—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–11 with E and Rows 12–22 with B. Block 27: With C, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across first half of top edge of Block 20, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 26—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with C, Rows 6–13 with G, and Rows 14–22 with F.

Block 28: With A, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 26, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along top half of right side of Block 25—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–11 with A and Rows 12–22 with G.

Block 29: With D, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 27, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 28—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with D, Rows 6–13 with E, and Rows 14–22 with A.

Block 30: With I, pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 19, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along right sides of Blocks 27 and 29—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–9 with I, Rows 10–17 with H, Rows 18–27 with A, Rows 28–35 with F, and Rows 36–46 with C.

Block 31: With G, CO 12 sts, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across first half of top edge of Block 30—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–11 with G and Rows 12–22 with E.

Block 32: With D, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along left side of Block 31, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across second half of top edge of Block 30—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with D, Rows 6–13 with A, and Rows 14–22 with I.

Block 33: With A, CO 12 sts, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 31— 24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with A, Rows 6–13 with C, and Rows 14–22 with B.

Block 34: With F, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along left side of Block 33, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 32—24 sts total. Work Small Square, working Rows 1–5 with F, Rows 6–11 with H, and Rows 12–22 with G.

Block 35 With C, pick up and knit 24 sts along left sides of Blocks 34 and 32, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top edges of Blocks 29 and 28—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–7 with C, Rows 8–15 with B, Rows 16–25 with I, Rows 26–35 with D, and Rows 36–46 with A.

Block 36: With D, pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along left side of Block 35, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 25—48 sts total. Work Large Square, working Rows 1–9 with D, Rows 10–17 with G, Rows 18–25 with H, Rows 26–35 with E, and Rows 36–46 with C. This completes first half of wrap.

Second Half: Work the first group of blocks for the second half directly onto the top edge of the first half, modifying the block instructions for the first half as foll:

Block 1: With A, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced across second half of top edge of Block 36, then CO 12 sts—24 sts. Work as for Block 1 in first half.

Block 2: With I, pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spacedacross first half of top edge of Block 36, then pick up and knit 12 sts evenly spaced along right side of Block 1—24 sts. Work as for Block 2 in first half.

Blocks 3 and 4: Work as for first half. Block 5: With G, pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Block 35, then pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced along right sides of Blocks 2 and 4—48 sts total.

Work as for Block 5 in first half.

Block 6: With D, pick up and knit 24 sts evenly spaced across top edge of Blocks 33 and 34, then pick up and knit 24 sts along right side of Block 5—48 sts total.

Work as for Block 6 in first half.

Blocks 7–36: Work as for first half. Finishing: Weave in loose ends. Block lightly to measurements.

The Tote that Can Carry the Kitchen Sink!

How much can you carry in one tote bag? Everything with this one!

SIZE: One Size
11 in. high x 18 in. wide x 6 in. deep (28 x 45.5 x 15 cm)

MATERIALS
• 640-147 Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick Yarn: Eggplant
4 Balls
• Knitting Needles Size 11 [8 mm]
• Split Ring Stitch Markers
• Large-Eye Blunt Needles
• Additional Materials
2 wood dowels 1/2 in. (13 mm) diameter x 15 in (38 cm) long 3/4 yd. (meter) of fabric for lining
Sewing needle and thread
GAUGE:
10 1/2 sts = 4 in. (10 cm) in Seed stitch. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION:
PATTERN STITCH
Seed Stitch (uneven number of sts)
Row 1 (RS): *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 2: P the knits and k the purls.
Rep Row 2 for Seed st.

TOTE
Cast on 35 sts. Beginning with a p row, work in St st (k on RS, p on WS) for 9 rows (for casing). Increase 12 sts evenly across next row - 47 sts. Place markers on each side edge. Work in Seed st for 11 in. (28 cm). Place markers on each side edge. Work in Seed st for 6 in. (15 cm) more. Place markers on each side edge. Continue in Seed st for 11 in. (28 cm), end with a WS row. Place markers on each side edge. K 1 row, decreasing 12 sts evenly across row.
Continue in St st, beginning with a p row, for 9 rows (for casing). Bind off.

SIDE PANELS (make 2)
Cast on 15 sts. Work in Seed st for 11 in. (28 cm). Bind off.

FINISHING
Lining
Measure Tote, not including casings. Add 1 in. (2.5 cm) to measurement of length and width. Cut a piece of fabric to this size for body lining.
From remaining fabric, cut 2 pieces, each 6 1/2 x 12 in. (16.5 x 30.5 cm) for sides.
With RS together and using a 1/2 in. (1.5 cm) seam allowance, sew one side to either edge of body lining, to make a bag shape.
Trim top edge evenly, then press 1/2 in. (1.5 cm) along top edge to the WS. Set lining aside.

Assembly
Sew Side Panels to sides of Tote, aligning corners and lower edges of Side Panels with markers. Fold St st casing in half to inside of Tote and sew in place.
Slip lining into Tote. Slipstitch top, pressed edge of lining to inside of Tote. Slide dowels into casings and sew ends closed.

Handles (make 2)
Cast on 5 sts. Work in Seed st for 25 in. (63.5 cm). Bind off. Sew long side edges together. Sew each end of Handle securely to inside edge of casing, about 3 in. (7.5 cm) from end of dowel.

Your Favorite Sweater

Once you knit this up, it will easier become your favorite go-to sweater!

SIZES
Directions are for women’s size X-Small. Changes for sizes Small, Medium, Large, 1X and 2X are in
parentheses

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Bust – 36(40-44-48-52-56)”
Length – 24½(25-26-26½-27½-28)”
Note: This garment was designed with an oversized fit. Please take this into consideration when selecting
your size.

MATERIALS
6(7-8-9-10-11) Hanks BERROCO PERUVIA QUICK (100 grs), #9119 Mostaza
One 16” and two 29” Length circular knitting needles, size 11 (8.00 mm) OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
1 Set (4) double pointed knitting needles, size 11 (8.00 mm)
1 St marker
2 St holders (or spare circular needles)
GAUGE
12 sts = 4”; 16 rows = 4” in St st
TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE

NOTE
This garment is worked in 2 sections, each starting at sleeve cuff and ending at center front and back.
Sections are then joined in the center using 3-needle bind off.

RIGHT SECTION
Sleeve: With dpn’s, cast on 34 sts. Divide sts onto 3 needles and join, being careful not to twist sts. Mark for beg of rnd and carry marker up. (Purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd) 3 times (6 rnds total). Work even in k1, p1
ribbing for 4 rnds. Work from here in St st (knit EVERY rnd). Knit 1 rnd.
Note: When there are too many sts to fit comfortably on dpn’s, change to 16” circular needle.
Inc Rnd: K1, M1k, k to last st, M1k, k1 – 36 sts. Rep this inc every 3(2-1¾-1½-1¼-1¼)” 5(7-8-9-11-12) times more – 46(50-52-54-58-60) sts. Work even until sleeve measures 18” from beg.
Right Front and Back: Next Row (RS): Using 29” circular needle and knit-on method, cast on 52(52-53- 53-54-54) sts, knit across these sts, then knit 46(50-52-54-58-60) sts of sleeve; with RS facing, pick up and k52(52-53-53-54-54) sts along cast-on edge – 150(154-158-160-166-168) sts. DO NOT join. Beg with a p row, work even in St st for 5½(6½-7½-8½-9½-10½)”, end on RS.
Divide for Neck: Next Row (WS): P75(77-79-80-83-84), sl remaining sts onto holder or spare circular needle for front.
Back: Knit 1 row, purl 1 row.
Dec Row (RS): K3, k2 tog, k to end – 74(76-78-79-82-83) sts. Rep this dec every RS row twice more, end on WS – 72(74-76-77-80-81) sts. Work even in k1, p1 ribbing for 4 rows. Knit 4 rows. Sl sts to holder or spare circular needle for back.
Front: Shape V-Neck: Sl sts from front holder to 29” circular needle.
Row 1 (WS): With WS facing, join yarn and bind off 5 sts purlwise, then p to end – 70(72-74-75-78-79) sts.
Row 2: Knit to last st, do not work last st, turn.
Row 3: Sl first st from LH needle purlwise WYIF, slip skipped st over the slipped st, then bind off 4 more sts, p to end – 65(67-79-70-73-74) sts. Rep Rows 2 and 3 four times more, end on RS – 45(47-49-50-53-54)
sts. Knit 1 row on WS. Sl sts to holder or spare circular needle for front.
LEFT SECTION
Work same as right section until piece measures 5½(6½-7½-8½-9½-10½)” above end of sleeve, end on WS – 150(154-158-160-166-168) sts.
Divide for Neck: Next Row (RS): K75(77-79-80-83-84), sl remaining sts to holder or spare circular needle for front. Purl 1 row, knit 1 row, purl 1 row.
Dec Row (RS): K to last 5 sts, SSK, k3 – 74(76-78-79-82-83) sts. Rep this dec every RS row twice more, end on WS – 72(74-76-77-80-81) sts. Work even in k1, p1 ribbing for 4 rows. Knit 4 rows. Sl sts to holder or spare circular needle for back.
Front: Sl sts from holder to 29” circular needle.
Row 1 (RS): With RS facing, join yarn, bind off 5 sts knitwise, then k to end – 70(72-74-75-78-79) sts.
Row 2: Purl to last st, do not work last st, turn.
Row 3: Sl first st from LH needle knitwise WYIB, slip skipped st over slipped st, then bind off 4 sts more, knit to end – 65(67-69-70-73-74) sts. Rep Rows 2 and 3 three times more, then rep Row 3 once more, end on
RS – 45(47-49-50-53-54) sts. Knit 1 row on WS. Sl sts to holder or spare circular needle for front.

FINISHING
Sl 72(74-76-77-80-81) sts of each back section onto a 29” circular needle. Hold sections together with needles parallel and WS facing each other. * Insert point of spare needle into first st on front needle, then
first st on back needle and k these 2 sts tog. Rep from * once more, then bind off resulting st. Continue in this manner until all sts on both needles are bound off. Bind off 45(47-49-50-53-54) sts of each front section in the same manner.
Neck Edging: With RS facing, using 16” circular needle, beg at center back neck, pick up and k86 sts around entire neck edge. Mark for beg of rnd and carry marker up. Purl 1 rnd. Bind off knitwise.

Knit Project Bag

Knit yourself a pyramid shaped project bag to make your knitting projects mobile. Finished Size About 61/2" wide at base and 6" tall, after felting.

Yarn Malabrigo Rasta (100% merino; 90 yd [82 m]/150 g): #863 zarzamora
(purple) and #868 coronilla (gold), 1 skein each.
Needles Size 13 (9 mm) (see Notes).
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions: Markers (m); removable markers; waste yarn for provisional CO;
tapestry needle.
Gauge 11 sts and 11 rnds = 4" in St st, before felting; 12 sts and 12 rnds = 4" in St st, after felting.
Notes • This bag can be worked with doublepointed needles, two circulars, or the magic-loop method. • Because of the provisional cast-on, you may need to adjust the tension of the cast-on stitches as you work across
them. If necessary, move the extra looseness across the row to one place,
pull the extra yarn to the wrong side and leave a loop. During finishing, cut the loop and weave in the ends; felting will secure them.
•You can arrange the colors in any way you like. You could make each triangle a solid color or alternate colors every round or two on each triangle. Two skeins of yarn are enough for two bags, so you can experiment.

Stitch Guide
Triangle:
Rnd 1: K20, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k19, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k19, sl 1, k2tog (last st of rnd and first st of next rnd), psso—60 sts rem.
Place removable m in each dec.
Rnd 2: *Knit to 1 st before marked st, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from * 2 more times (last k2tog uses last st of rnd and first st of next rnd)—6 sts dec’d.
Rep Rnd 2 every rnd 8 more times—6 sts rem.
Rnd 11: Ssk 3 times—3 sts rem.
Rnd 12: Ssk, sl st to left needle, use right needle to pass 2nd on left needle over first—1 st rem.
Cut yarn, leaving a 6" tail. Fasten off last st.

Bottom
With gold and the invisible provisional method (see Glossary), CO 22 sts. *With a separate strand of waste yarn and cont with same strand of gold, CO 22 sts; rep from * once more—66 sts total. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work triangle (see Stitch Guide), changing to purple on Rnd 9—no sts rem.

Back
With purple, RS facing, and beg at one corner of bottom, pick up and knit 1 st in corner, remove provisional CO from 22 sts along one edge and knit these sts, pick up and knit 1 st in corner—24 sts total.
Sl last 2 sts to left needle, pass 2nd st over first, sl rem st to right needle—23 sts rem.
Slide sts to other end of needle. Sl 2 sts to right needle, pass 2nd st over first, sl rem st to left needle—22 sts rem. Slide sts to other end of needle. Using the provisional method and same strand of purple, CO 22
sts—44 sts total. With a separate strand of waste yarn and same strand of purple, CO 22 sts—66 sts total. Pm and join in the rnd. Work triangle, changing to gold on Rnd 7—no sts rem.

Left Side
With purple, RS facing, and beg at corner of bottom that is not attached to back, pick up and knit 1 st in corner, remove provisional CO from 22 sts along bottom edge and knit these sts, pick up and knit 1 st in corner—24 sts total. Sl last 2 sts to left needle, pass 2nd st over first, sl rem st to right needle—23 sts rem. Slide sts to other end of needle. Sl 2 sts to right needle, pass 2nd st over first, sl rem st to left needle—22 sts rem. Slide sts to other end of needle. Remove provisional CO from 22 sts along edge of back and knit these sts—44 sts total. Using the provisional method and same strand of purple, CO 5 sts—49 sts total. Using the backward-loop method, firmly CO 12 sts—61 sts total. With a separate
strand of waste yarn and same strand of purple, CO 5 sts—66 sts total. Pm and join in the rnd. Work triangle, changing to gold on Rnd 7—no sts rem.

Right Side
With purple, RS facing, and working along rem edge of bottom, pick up and knit 1 st in corner, remove provisional CO from 22 sts along bottom edge and knit these sts, pick up and knit 1 st in corner—24 sts total. Sl last 2 sts to left needle, pass 2nd st over first, sl rem st to right needle—23 sts rem. Slide sts to other end of needle. Sl 2 sts to right needle, pass 2nd st over first, sl rem st to left needle—22 sts rem. Slide sts to other end of needle. Remove provisional CO from 5 sts along edge of left side and knit these sts—27 sts total. Using the backward-loop method, firmly CO 12 sts—39 sts total. Remove provisional CO from 5 sts along edge of left side and knit these sts—44 sts total. Remove provisional CO from 22 sts along edge of back and knit these sts—66 sts total.
Pm and join in the rnd. Work triangle, changing to gold on Rnd 7—no sts rem.

Finishing
Pull a double thickness of purple through top of pyramid as a placeholder for handle, which will be added later. Turn bag inside out and work in ends loosely, being careful not to pull and distort bag fabric.
Felting: With bag inside out, place in washing machine with a pair of jeans for extra agitation. Wash on lowest and hottest water setting with a small amount of mild detergent. Sts will still be quite distinct after bag is felted. Allow to airdry.

Handle: Make a twisted cord as foll: Cut a 24" length of each yarn and tie tog at one end. Twist each strand clockwise until it is tightly twisted. Hold strands beside each other and allow to twist around each other. Tie ends tog. Remove placeholder yarn from top of pyramid and insert handle so that pyramid top is centered on handle. Knot handle at top of pyramid.
Tie ends of handle tog with an overhand knot about 5–6" from top of bag to form a hanging loop.

Drawstring Pullover

Here's a great spring sweater...or a fabulous swimsuit coverup!

SIZES
Small/Medium (Medium/Large, Large/XL)
KNITTED MEASUREMENTS
Bust 42 (46, 50)"/106.5 (117, 127) cm
To Fit Bust Sizes 34-38 (38-42, 42-46)"/71- 86.5 (91.5-106.5, 112-127) cm
Length 18½ (19½, 20½)"/47 (49.5, 51.5) cm, with edging unrolled

MATERIALS
• 7 (7, 8) balls S. Charles Collezione
ECLIPSE 92% cotton, 4% polyester, 4%
nylon (1.75oz/50g; 162yds/147.5m) in color
#06 citrine
• One pair size 8 (5mm) needles
OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
• One size 8 (5mm) circular needle, 16"/40cm long
• One size 4 (3.5mm) circular needle, 16"/40cm long
• One size 4 (3.5mm) circular needle, 40"/100cm long
• One pair double-pointed needles (dpn) size 4 (3.5mm) for I-Cord
• Waste yarn
• Stitch marker
• Yarn needle

GAUGE
17 sts and 25 rows = 4"/10 cm in Rib
Pattern, using larger needles
TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE

PATTERN STITCHES
Reverse Stockinette stitch (Rev St st) Purl on RS, knit on WS.
Stockinette stitch (St st) in rows Knit on RS, purl on WS.
Stockinette stitch (St st) in the round Knit every row.
Rib Pattern (multiple of 4 sts + 2)
All Rows: *K2, yo, k2tog; rep from * to last 2
sts, k2.
BODY
NOTE: PULLOVER is worked in one piece
from center BACK, across FRONT, to center
BACK. Armhole sts are worked in waste yarn, then Sleeves are picked up after BODY is complete.
Using larger needles, cast on 75 (79, 83) sts. (RS) Slip 1, work Rib Pattern to last 4 sts, work in Rev St st (beg with a purl row) to end. Work even, slipping first st and purling last st of every row, until piece measures 7 (7½, 8)" from beg, end with a WS row.

Establish Sleeves
(RS) Work 35 sts, change to waste yarn, k27 (31, 35), turn, p27 (31, 35), turn, change to working yarn, work to end. Work even until piece measures 35 (38½, 42)" from beg, end with a WS row.
(RS) Establish second Sleeve as for first. Work even for 7 (7½, 8)", end with a WS row.
Bind off all sts. Sew cast-on and bound-off edges together.

Sleeves
Carefully remove waste yarn and place 54 (62, 70) sts on larger 16" circular needle.
With RS facing, rejoin yarn, pick up and knit 1 st, work in Rib Pattern to end, pick up and knit 1 st – 56 (64, 72) sts. Work even, slipping first st of every row and keeping last st in St st, until piece measures 13" from
beg, end with a WS row. (RS) Change to smaller circular needle and
St st; work even for 6 rows. Bind off all sts.

FINISHING
Block piece to measurements. Sew Sleeve seams.

Bottom Band
With RS facing, using smaller 40" long circular needle and beg at BACK seam, pick up and knit 137 (150, 163) sts along bottom edge (opposite rolled Rev St st edge) . Join for working in the rnd; pm for beg of rnd. Beg St st; work even for 6 rnds. Bind off all sts.

I-CORD TIES (make 2)
With dpn, cast on 3 sts. Work I-Cord 40 (44, 48)" long. Fasten off. With RS facing, beg at center FRONT, thread first TIE through eyelets just below Rev St st edge. Thread second TIE through eyelets above Bottom
Band.
Weave in ends.

HOW TO WEAR THE PULLOVER
With drawstrings on both top and bottom of the pullover, it is versatile enough to wear in different ways. To wear as shown in the image on the left on page 1 of the pattern, let the bottom hem fall around your hips, then tighten the bottom drawstring loosely around the hips. Tighten the top drawstring around the top of your shoulders and adjust the
fabric to create an even “ruffle” around the neckline. To wear as shown in the image on the right, bring the bottom hem of the pullover around your waist, then tighten the bottom drawstring more tightly to keep it at
waist level. The top drawstring can be loosened as much as possible (or removed if you prefer) to let the neckline droop in the center, forming a frame for the camisole or top you choose to wear underneath it.

SPECIAL TECHNIQUE
I-CORD: On dpn, cast on [or pick up] number of sts indicated in instructions. DO NOT TURN. *Slide sts to the opposite end of the needle and knit them, pulling yarn firmly behind sts; rep from * to desired length. After a few rows, you will see that you are knitting a tiny tube; give it a gentle tug now and then to adjust any loose sts. Bind off all sts, leaving approx. 12” tail for finishing.

Simple Socks

Simple Socks?...you may ask...yes! There is a time when you have to knit your first pair of socks...why not make it painless? And this are kinda cute to boot!

SIZE: Adult Medium
Women's Medium

MATERIALS
• 486-170 Lion Brand LB Collection Superwash Merino: Dijon
1 Ball (A)
• 486-098 Lion Brand LB Collection Superwash Merino: Antique
1 Ball (B)
• Stitch Markers
• Stitch Holders
• Stitch Markers
• Additional Materials
Double pointed needles size 2 (2.75 mm), set of 5

GAUGE:
28 sts = 4 in. (10 cm) in St st worked in the rnd (k every rnd). BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it
takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION:
NOTES:
ssk (slip, slip, knit) Slip next 2 sts as if to knit, one at a time, to right needle; insert left
needle into fronts of these 2 sts and k them together – 1 st decreased.


Grafting
Holding the 2 needles parallel with wrong sides of fabric together, thread a blunt needle with yarn end and work as follows:
Insert needle as if to purl into the first stitch on front piece.
Insert needle as if to knit into the first stitch on the back piece. Then follow steps 1-4 below.
1) Insert needle as if to knit through the first st on the front needle and let the st drop from the needle.
2) Insert needle into the second st on the front needle as if to purl and pull the yarn through, leaving the st on the needle.
3) Insert needle into the first st on the back needle as if to purl and let the st drop from the needle, then
4) Insert needle as if to knit through the second st on the back needle and pull the yarn through, leaving the st on the needle. Rep 1-4 until all sts have been grafted. When finished, adjust tension as necessary.


PATTERN STITCHES
K1, p1 Rib (in the rnd over an even number of sts)
Rnd 1: *K1, p1, rep from * around Rep Rnd 1 for K1, p1 Rib worked in the rnd.
STRIPE SEQUENCE
Note: When changing color, do not cut yarn; carry unused color up wrong side of work.
*Beg with A, work 4 rnds each of A and B alternately until 8 stripes have been worked (4 each of A and B).
Beg with A, work 2 rnds each of A and B alternately until 6 stripes have been worked (3 each of A and B).
Beg with A, work 1 rnd each of A and B alternately until 8 stripes have been worked (4 each of A and B).
Beg with A, work 2 rnds each of A and B alternately until 6 stripes have been worked (3 each of A and B).
Rep from * for Stripe Sequence.


SOCK (make 2)
Leg
With A, cast on 64 sts. Divide sts evenly onto 4 double pointed needles. Place marker for beg of rnd and join,
being careful not to twist sts. Work in K1, p1 Rib for 3/4 in. (2 cm), changing color following Stripe Sequence. Change to St st worked in the rnd (k every rnd) and continue to change color following Stripe Sequence as established until piece measures about 6 in. (15 cm) from beg, ending with a rnd worked with
B. Place last 32 sts worked onto a holder for top of foot (instep), and continue on rem 32 sts only for heel.


Heel Flap
Notes
1. Heel Flap is worked back and forth in rows over the rem 32 sts only.
2. Continue to change color following Stripe Sequence as established.
Row 1: Sl 1, k across.
Row 2: Sl 1, p across.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until heel flap measures about 2 1/4 in. (5.5 cm).
Important: Make a note of where you have left off in the Stripe Sequence.
Turn Heel
Note: Work heel turn with A only.
Row 1 (RS): K21, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, k8, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, p9, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 5: Sl 1, k10, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 6: Sl 1, p11, p2tog, p1, turn.
Continue in this way, working 1 more st between dec until all 32 sts have been worked, end with a WS row –
20 sts for heel.
Next Rnd: With A, k across heel sts, with same needle, pick up and k19 sts along side of heel flap; with 2nd needle k across 16 top of foot (instep) sts on holder; with 3rd needle k across 16 top of foot (instep) sts on holder; with 4th needle, pick up and k19 sts along other side edge of heel flap, with same needle k across 10
heel sts – 90 sts at end of rnd. Beg of rnd is at center of heel sts. Place marker for new beg of rnd.


Shape Gusset
Note: Resume working in Stripe Sequence as established, and shape gusset as follows:
Rnd 1: Knit.
Rnd 2: K to last 3 sts on 1st needle, k2tog, k1; k across instep sts; on 4th needle, k1, ssk, k to end of rnd.
Rep Rnds 1 and 2 until 64 sts rem.


Foot
Work even in St st and Stripe Sequence until foot measures about 7 1/2 in. (19.3 cm), or 2 in. (5 cm) less than desired total length.
Shape Toe
Note: Continue in Stripe Sequence as established.
Rnd 1: K to last 3 sts on 1st needle, k2tog, k1, on 2nd needle k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts on 3rd needle, ssk, k1, on 4th needle, k1, k2tog, k to end of rnd.
Rnd 2: Knit.
Rep Rnds 1 and 2 until 20 sts rem. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Divide remaining sts onto 2 needles and graft toe together.


FINISHING
Weave in ends.

Learn to Cable Scarf!

Come on already...you can do this! Learning to cable opens you to a whole new level of creative knitting. Go for it!


SIZE: One Size
8 x 80 in. [20 x 203 cm]

MATERIALS
• 640-189 Lion Brand Wool-Ease® Thick & Quick: Butterscotch
2 Balls (A)
• 640-122 Lion Brand Wool-Ease® Thick & Quick: Taupe
2 Balls (B)
• Lion Brand Knitting Needles- Size 13 [9 mm]
• Lion Brand Cable Needles (Set of 2)
• Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)

GAUGE:
9½ sts = 4 in. [10 cm] over Scarf Pattern Stitch. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE.

STITCH EXPLANATION:
NOTES:
A perfect way to learn to cable! If you know how to knit and purl, you can make this beautiful Scarf. Just work the stitches carefully across each row, working the cable according to the directions in the Cable Stitch Explanations.
Basically, a cable is nothing more than moving stitches so that they change places with other stitches. To move stitches, just slip the indicated number of stitches off your left needle and
onto a cable needle. Allow the cable needle to hang from your knitting with the stitches on it while you work stitches from your left needle. Then, following the specific row directions, work
the stitches from the cable needle.

CABLE STITCH EXPLANATIONS
T3B (Twist 3 Back) Slip 1 st to a cable needle and leave at the back of your work, k 2 sts from your left needle, then p the1 st from cable needle.
T3F (Twist 3 Front) Slip 2 sts to a cable needle and leave at the front of your work, p 1 st from your left needle, then k the 2 sts from cable needle.
C3B (Cable 3 Back) Slip 1 st to a cable needle and leave at the back of your work, k 2 sts from your left needle, then k the 1 st from cable needle.
C3F (Cable 3 Front) Slip 2 sts to a cable needle and leave at the front of your work, k 1 st from your left needle, then k 2 sts from cable needle.

SCARF
With A, cast on 19 sts.
Row 1 (Right Side): K1, *p1, k1; repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: Repeat Row 1.
Row 3: K1, p1, k1, p2, k2, (p1, k1) twice, p1, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1.
Row 4: K1, p1, k3, p3, k1, p1, k1, p3, k3, p1, k1.
Row 5: K1, p1, k1, p2, T3F, k1, p1, k1, T3B, p2, k1, p1, k1.
Row 6: K1, p1, k4, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k4, p1, k1.
Row 7: K1, p1, k1, p3, T3F, p1, T3B, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Row 8: K1, p1, k5, p5, k5, p1, k1.
Row 9: K1, p1, k1, p4, sl the next 3 sts to a cable needle and leave at the back of your work, k2, sl 3 sts
from cable needle back onto left needle, sl 2 of these sts back onto cable needle and leave at the back of your work, p1, k the 2 sts that are on the cable needle, p4, k1, p1, k1.
Row 10: K1, p1, k5, p5, k5, p1, k1.
Row 11: K1, p1, k1, p3, C3B, p1, C3F, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Row 12: K1, p1, k4, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k4, p1, k1.
Row 13: K1, p1, k1, p2, T3B, k1, p1, k1, T3F, p2, k1, p1, k1.
Row 14: K1, p1, k3, p3, k1, p1, k1, p3, k3, p1, k1.
Repeat Rows 3-14 ten more times.
Change to B and repeat Rows 3-14 eleven times.
Then work Rows 1 and 2 again. Bind off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends.

Another Great Scarf!

Just another fun scarf pattern using great yarn from Rowan!

Yarn:
Rowan Lima: 50g and 109 yards
1 Ball each of Colors 885 Machu Picchu (A), 888 Lima (B), 890 Bolivia (C), 886 Puno (D).
Approximate Finished Size After Blocking: 60” by 7”

Gauge:
16 sts = 4 X 4 inches in stockinette.
Supplies:
Knit: 1 pair US 10 32” circular needles (or size to achieve gauge)
Crochet: 1 pair 6.0MM Crochet Hook


Directions:
CO 243 sts using the cable cast on, leaving a 5 inch tail (or desired length - this will become your fringe).
You may want to place a marker every 20 sts to help in counting your stitches.

If you would like a longer scarf just cast on 4 more stitches for every extra inch you desire.
CO row counts as row 1. Begin pattern, changing colors every 3rd row on the RS, using your A, B, C, D color sequence.
Row 1: * K2, P2 * until last 3 sts, K2, P1
** Each time you reach the end of a row you will cut a 5 inch tail for fringe.
Repeat row 1, changing colors on every RS row
Approaching the End:
Once desired width is reached, work one RS row with the next color in the sequence.
Then cast off on WS row as follows:
Loosely K1, P1, pass knit stitch over purl stitch, drop off, K1 pass purl stitch over knit stitch. Continue as established in the K1, P1 pattern loosely. This cast off keeps the stitches
from leaning to one side or the other and finishes the piece off nicely.

Finishing:
Trim your fringe and then block lightly.

Colorplay with Shannon Okey

Austin not only is hosting SXSW this week, but Shannon Okey is in town, sponsored by Hill Country Weavers; giving classes and signing books.
I signed up for the Colorplay class...a primer in Yarn Dying.
Here are the pics of a great day:

My finished yarn!

Beret and Matching Cowl

This matching duo is quick and easy to complete, from what I hear, some of you can still use this to stay warm and snuggly!


SIZE
One size
KNITTED MEASUREMENTS
Beret Circumference 20 1/2”/52cm
Beret Height 10”/25.5cm
Collar Circumference 20 1/2”/52cm
Collar Height 9”/23 cm

MATERIALS
For Beret
• 2 balls Tahki Yarns PRESTO 45% wool,
46% acrylic, 3% nylon, 3% mohair
(1.75oz/50g; 60yds/55m) in color #02
curry
One size 10½ (6.5mm) circular needle, 16”/40 cm long OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
• One 1”/25mm button

For Collar
• 3 balls Tahki Yarns PRESTO 45% wool, 46% acrylic, 3% nylon, 3% mohair (1.75oz/50g; 60yds/55m) in color #02 curry
• One pair size 10½ (6.5mm) needles
OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
• Two 1”/25mm buttons

For Both Beret & Collar
• One pair size 9 (5.5mm) needles
• Stitch markers
• Yarn needle

GAUGE
12 sts and 17 rows = 4”/10 cm in Ridge Pattern with larger needles
TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE

PATTERN STITCHES
P2, k2 rib
Ridge Pattern
* Purl 1 round, knit 3 rounds; rep from * for Ridge Pattern.

BERET
Band
With smaller needles, cast on 10 sts.
Row 1 (RS) Slip 1, * p2, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.
Rep this row 3 more times.
Buttonhole Row (RS) Work 4 sts in rib, bind off 2 sts, work to end of row.
Next Row (WS) Work 4 sts in rib, cast on 2 sts, work 4 sts in rib.
Work 2 rows even. Pm at beg of next row to mark point to start picking up sts.
Work even until piece measures 22” from beg. Bind off all sts in rib.

Top
With RS facing and larger (circular) needle, pick up 88 sts along side edge of Band, starting at marker and working to end. Pm and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.
(RS) Begin Ridge Pattern; work 16 rnds.
Purl 1 rnd.
Dec Rnd * K2tog, k6; rep from * around – 77 sts.
Knit 2 rnds, purl 1 rnd.
Dec Rnd * K2tog, k5; rep from * around – 66 sts.
Knit 2 rnds, purl 1 rnd.
Dec Rnd * K2tog, k1; rep from * around – 44 sts.
Knit 2 rnds, purl 1 rnd.
Dec Rnd * K2tog; rep from * around – 22 sts.
Knit 2 rnds, purl 1 rnd.
Dec Rnd * K2tog; rep from * around – 11 sts.
Cut yarn leaving a long tail, draw through remaining sts and fasten securely in place.

FINISHING
Sew button opposite Buttonhole. Weave in ends.

COLLAR
Band
With smaller needles, cast on 20 sts.
Row 1 (RS) Slip 1, * p2, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 2 Slip 1, * k2, p2; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.
Rep these 2 rows once more.
Buttonhole Row (RS) Work 4 sts in rib, bind off 2 sts, work 7 sts in rib, bind off 2 sts, work to end of row.
Next Row (WS) Work 4 sts in rib, cast on 2 sts, work 8 sts in rib, cast on 2 sts, rib 4 sts.
Work 2 rows even. Pm at beg of next row.
Work even until piece measures 22” from beg. Bind off all sts in rib.

Bottom
With RS facing and larger needles, pick up 68 sts along side edge of Band, starting at marker and working to end.
Next Row (WS) K4, * pm, k10; rep from *
to last 4 sts, k4.
** Knit 1 row; increasing 1 st before each
marker – 74 sts.
Purl 1 row, knit 2 rows. Rep from ** 4 more times – 98 sts. Bind off all sts.

Knitted Leaf Necklace

Make this knitted leaf necklace nice and long to accessorize your long tunics and leggings. Or double the yarn and bump up the needle size and knit this up as a belt!


SIZE
Approximately 40” long

MATERIALS
1 Ball BERROCO SUEDE DELUXE (50 grs), #3904 Hopalong Gold
2 Double pointed knitting needles, size 6


NOTE
There are no gauge requirements for this necklace

NECKLACE
With double pointed needles, cast on 2 sts and work I-Cord as follows:
** Row 1: * K2, do not turn work. Slide sts to beg of needle to work next row from RS. Rep from * for 2”.
Leaf: Row 1 (RS): K1, yo, k1 – 3 sts. Turn.
Row 2: K1, (k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) all in yo, k1 – 7 sts. Knit 8 rows.
Dec Row (RS): SSK, k to last 2 sts, k2 tog – 5 sts. Knit 1 row. Rep the last 2 rows once more – 3 sts.
Next Row (RS): SSK, k1 – 2 sts. Rep from ** 11 times more – 12 leaves. On last leaf, work Next Row as sl 1, k2 tog, psso – 1 st. Fasten off.

FINISHING
Sew cast-on edge of first section of I-Cord to base of first leaf forming a loop. Draw last leaf through loop to fasten. More leaves may be pulled through loop to adjust length of necklace.

A Knitted Wonderland Art Project...Part 6 & 7 finally!

The exhibit of A Knitted Wonderland at the Blanton Museum of Art in Austin, TX...was amazing. The installation took place Friday night. And after a terrible rainstorm on Saturday morning, the sun came through and so did all of our tree cozies!

Here are some photos of the installation and opening day:

A Knitted Wonderland Art Project...Part 5

It's finally here! Here's an article from Austin 360. Get ready for pics of the installation and first day of the exihibit!

Knitters city-wide get stitching for Blanton Museum project

By Luke Quinton SPECIAL TO THE AMERICAN-STATESMAN

Updated: 8:50 p.m. Sunday, Feb. 6, 2011

Published: 7:56 a.m. Saturday, Feb. 5, 2011

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There are, surprisingly, 99 trees in the Blanton Museum of Art's Faulkner Plaza. And on March 5, the trunk of each one will be cloaked in striped Technicolor yarn.

This is the museum's contribution for "Explore UT," the University of Texas' annual open house. The "Knitted Wonderland" project is a collaboration with Magda Sayeg, the Austin knitter behind recent instances of "knit graffiti" such as the Lamar Boulevard underpass, and similar commissions all over the world.

But, as anyone who has ever picked up a crochet hook or knitting needle can attest, making 99 tree-sweaters will take a serious labor force.

A group led by Heather Sutherland has been meeting at Gauge Knits in North Central Austin to chat and share their progress.

Sutherland, who runs Knotty Knitters, a local knitting club, is the point-knitter for "Knitted Wonderland." "I just like bringing the community together through art," she says.

But for the group of women at Gauge, not all trees have been created equal. "Some are five feet; some are 11 or 12 feet. They're maybe 30 inches around," says Sutherland. Thankfully, the interest from knitters has been intense. More than 140 are working on a tree or splitting half the work. More work is coming from students enrolled in Sayeg's class at the Griffin School.

Tina Thering is a member of the Blanton, so when the call went out online, she rushed to get tree No. 3. But it turns out tree No. 3 is 11 feet tall, and although many trees have partners, Thering is going it alone. "I mapped it out on Excel," she says.

The colors are an eye-popping mix of turquoise, orange, pink and olive. Yarn stores around town sold out quickly as knitters scrambled to locate the few remaining skeins.

The colors and stripes are the only stipulation, to create some uniformity, so each knitter will leave her mark. "I wanted to make it more whimsical," says Sujo Plassman of Pflugerville. And so she's adorned her crocheted stripes with small triangular thistles.

Like a cross between the legendary "wrapper" Christo and environmental artist Andy Goldsworthy, the project will be a comment on the value of time in the arts and crafts. But for non-knitters, it seems frightfully ephemeral.

A few jokes circulated. Couldn't this work do something more, well, useful? How about knitting for the homeless? Of course we don't ask restaurants to feed the poor, and it's unfair to peg knitters to just clothes. Many of these knitters participate in knitting charity groups all over town.

Still, even the volunteers let out a collective groan when it was revealed that the tree coverings would be displayed for just two weeks.

What is to become of all the displayed yarn? The knitters are welcome to retrieve it, and some say their yarn will be reused and donated.

"My daughter thinks it's going to be a skirt," says Plassman. But she's picturing a blanket. "It'd be an awfully heavy skirt," she says.

By ordinary standards, these projects are monsters. Gauge owner Karli Capps says one woman, after an hour of work, had just one inch. That's why Capps has other plans. "I'm going industrial with it," she says, explaining that she's waiting for help to unveil her secret weapon: the Ultimate Sweater Machine.

When Carrie Thielemann, whom Capps calls her "fixer," arrives, they arrange the keyboard-sized machine on the table and set up the lines of yarn to thread through it like an ancient printer.

Sure enough, despite much finagling, three inches of striped yarn had emerged from the mouth of the machine after a scant thirty minutes.

Borrowing the vernacular of graffiti to talk about a monster team of knitters who adorn public objects is definitely a stretch, but it probably sounds a lot cooler to say you're "yarn-bombing" 99 trees at the Blanton than to say you're laboring for 20 to 40 hours to cover a tree for the sake of arts and crafts.

"I don't know why we're using all this violent language around it," quips Capps, tongue-in-cheek.

The project also is related to the museum's upcoming exhibit, "Recovering Beauty: The 1990s in Buenos Aires."

F-F-Fun F-F-Fur Scarf...F-F-Fabulous!

Fun Fur...the name says it all...now in soooo many colors!

SIZE: One Size
6 1/4 x 80 in. [16 x 203.25 cm]

MATERIALS
• 620-153 Lion Brand Wool-Ease Yarn: Black 1 Ball (A)
• 320-124 Lion Brand Fun Fur Yarn: Champagne 1 Ball (B)
• 320-153 Lion Brand Fun Fur Yarn: Black 1 Ball (C)
• 320-204 Lion Brand Fun Fur Yarn: Lava 1 Ball (D)
• 320-134 Lion Brand Fun Fur Yarn: Copper 3 Balls (E)
• 320-126 Lion Brand Fun Fur Yarn: Chocolate 2 Balls (F)
• Knitting Needles - Size 19 [15 mm]
• Knitting Needles- Size 5 [3.75 mm]
• Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)

GAUGE:
7 sts = about 4 in. [10 cm] in Garter st (k every row) with larger needles and 1 strand Wool-Ease and 4 strands Fun Fur held together.
EXACT GAUGE IS NOT ESSENTIAL FOR THIS PROJECT.
BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION:
K1, p1 Rib
Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * across.
Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts.
Rep Row 2 for K1, p1 Rib.

SCARF
With larger needles and 1 strand A, 2 strands C, and 2 strands E held tog, cast on 5 sts.
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: K1, k into front and then back of next st (inc made), k to last 2 sts, inc in next st, k1 - 7 sts.
Rows 3-4: Rep Row 2 - 11 sts.
Rows 5-10: Knit.
Rows 11-16: With smaller needles and 1 strand A only, work in K1, p1 Rib.
Rows 17-26: With larger needles and 1 strand A, 3 strands E and 1 strand F, knit.
Rows 27-32: Rep Rows 11-16.
Rows 33-42: With larger needles and 1 strand A, 1 strand B, 1 strand E and 2 strands F, knit.
Rows 43-48: Rep Rows 11-16.
Rows 49-58: With larger needles and 1 strand A, 1 strand B, 2 strands D and 1 strand F, knit.
Rows 59-64: Rep Rows 11-16.
Rows 65-74: With larger needles and 1 strand A, 1 strand B, 1 strand E and 2 strands F, knit.
Rows 75-80: Rep Rows 11-16.
Rows 81-90: With larger needles and 1 strand A, 3 strands E and 1 strand F, knit.
Rows 91-96: Rep Rows 11-16.
Rows 97-106: With larger needles and 1 strand A, 2 strands C and 2 strands E, knit.
Rows 107-112: Rep Rows 11-16.
Rows 113-122: With larger needles and 1 strand A, 3 strands E and 1 strand F, knit.
Rows 123-128: Rep Rows 11-16.
Rows 129-138: With larger needles and 1 strand A, 1 strand B, 1 strand E, and 2 strands F, knit.
Rows 139-144: Rep Rows 11-16.
Rows 145-154: With larger needles and 1 strand A, 1 strand B, 2 strands D and 1 strand F, knit.
Rows 155-160: Rep Rows 11-16.
Rows 161-170: With larger needles and 1 strand A, 1 strand B, 1 strand E and 2 strands F, knit.
Rows 171-176: Rep Rows 11-16.
Rows 177-186 With larger needles and 1 strand A, 2 strands E and 1 strand F, knit.
Rows 187-192: Rep Rows 11-16.
Rows 193-199 With larger needles and 1 strand A, 2 strands C and 2 strands E, knit.
Row 200: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog - 9 sts.
Rows 201-202: Rep Row 200 - 5 sts.
Row 203: Knit.
Bind off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends.

One Cool Sweater...Really!

What a great spring/summer sweater! I'm thinking longer as a swimsuit cover up..hmmmm!

SIZES
Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2X, 3X)
KNITTED MEASUREMENTS
Bust 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56)"/91.5 (101.5, 112, 122, 132, 142) cm
Length 24½ (25, 25½, 26, 26½, 27)"/62 (63.5, 65, 66, 67.5, 68.5) cm
MATERIALS
• 8 (9, 11, 12, 13, 14) balls Tahki Yarns NATURAL EARTH COTTON 100% naturally-colored organic cotton (1.75oz/50g; 92yds/85m) in color #03 rosewood
• One pair size 9 (5.5mm) needles OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
• Stitch holders & stitch markers
• Yarn needle

GAUGE
13 sts and 20 rows = 4"/10cm in Lace stitch
TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
k2tog: Knit 2 together (dec) – Knit 2 sts together through the front loops.
ssk: Slip, slip, knit (dec) – Slip 2 sts, one at a time KNITWISE to RH needle, return the sts to LH needle in the turned position
and knit [or purl] them together through the
back loops.

PATTERN STITCHES
Stockinette stitch (St st) Knit on RS, purl on WS.
Reverse Stockinette stitch (Rev St st) Purl on RS, knit on WS.
Lace Stitch (multiple of 2 sts)
Row 1 and all WS Rows Purl.
Row 2 K1, [yo, ssk] across to last st, k1.
Row 4 Knit.
Row 6 K1, [k2tog, yo] across to last st, k1.
Repeat Rows 1-6 for Lace st.

BACK
Cast on 60 (66, 74, 78, 86, 92) sts.
Beg with Row 1, work in Lace st until piece measures 16" from beg, end with a WS row.

Shape Armhole
Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 8 (10, 12, 14, 16, 18) rows – 44 (46, 50, 50, 54, 56) sts rem.
Change to Rev St st and work until Armholes measure 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½, 10)", end with a WS row.

Shape Neck and Shoulders
Mark center 20 (22, 22, 22, 24, 24) sts for Neck.
Next Row (RS) Bind off 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts, work to center marked 20 (22, 22, 22, 24, 24) sts for Left Side, join 2nd ball of yarn and bind off 20 (22, 22, 22, 24, 24) sts for Neck, work to end of row for Right Side.
Working both sides at same time with separate balls of yarn, dec 1 st at each Neck edge once. AT SAME TIME, bind off 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts from Right Side edge once, then 6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8) sts from each side edge once.

FRONT
Work as for Back until 6 rows of Rev St st have been worked, end with a WS row – 44 (46, 50, 50, 54, 56) sts rem.
Shape Plackets
Next Row (RS) P19 (20, 22, 22, 24, 25) sts, k3 for Left Side, join 2nd ball of yarn and k3, work to end of row for Right Side –
22 (23, 25, 25, 27, 28) sts rem each side.
Working both sides at same time with separate balls of yarn and keeping 3 sts at each center Neck edge in St st, work for
2", end with a WS row.

Shape Neck
Slip 5 sts at each Neck edge to stitch holder for Front Neck on next 2 rows.
Bind off 2 sts from each Neck edge once – 15 (16, 18, 18, 20, 21) sts rem.
Dec 1 st at each Neck edge 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) times – 11 (11, 13, 13, 14, 15) sts rem.
Work until Armholes measure same length as BACK to Shoulder.
Shape Shoulders
Bind off 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts from side edge once, then 6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8) sts from each side edge once more.

SLEEVES
Cast on 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54) sts.
Beg with Row 1, work in Lace st until piece measures 17" from beg, end with a WS row.
Shape Cap
Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 4 (6, 8, 10, 12,
14) rows – 26 sts rem.
Work 4 more rows in Lace st.
Change to Rev St st, dec 1 st each side every 4th row 5 times – 16 sts rem.
Bind off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows – 8 sts rem. Bind off rem sts.
FINISHING
Block pieces to measurements. Sew Shoulder seams. Sew in SLEEVES. Sew side seams and SLEEVES.

Neckband
With RS facing, work across 5 sts from Right Front stitch holder, pick up and knit 67 (71, 71, 71, 75, 75) sts evenly spaced
around Neck edge, work 5 sts from Left Front stitch holder – 77 (81, 81, 85, 85) sts.
Next Row (WS) P3, knit to last st, p3.
Knit 1 row.
Bind off purlwise.
Weave in ends.