SIZE: One Size
About 19%" (49 em) wide and 52"(132 em) long,after blocking, but before tucks. With selvedges allowed to roll,piece will measure about 18" (45.5 em) wide.
MATERIALS • 484-133 Lion Brand LB Collection Silk Mohair: Sunset 2 Balls• Lion Brand Split Ring Stitch MarkersLarge-Eye Blunt Needle
• Additional Materials Size U.S. 8 (5 mm): two 24 in. (60 em) circular
GAUGE:
17 sts and 17 rows= 4" (10 em) in St st,after blocking.
BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 em] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.
NOTES:
clean and tangle-free and works especially well if you're working with multiple strands of yarn
(either double strands of silk/mohair or silk/mohair plus another yarn). To deal with a mistake that is difficult to rip back,or if your work has fallen off your needles, place the entire piece
along with the working yarn in a large ziplock bag, then place it in the freezer for10 minutes or so until the fibers firm up but not so long that ice crystals form. The cold fiber will be easier to detangle or replace on the needles. Use a lifeline if you are concerned about the stitches slipping off the needles. Periodically (say, at the end of each pattern repeat) draw a tapestry needle threaded with a strand of thin smooth yarn or dental floss through the stitches on the needle. On the next row,take care not catch the lifeline into the knitting. If you do make a mistake,simply ravel to the lifeline. If you use a set of interchangeable needles, thread dental floss into the hole at the base of the needle and knit a row as usual-the lifeline will be added as you knit.Shrug
Note: Work even in St st (K RS rows, P WS rows) until piece measures 52 1/2" from CO. Cut yarn, leaving a 60" tail to use for grafting later. Leave sts on needle.
FinishingWith clr needles in place as holders at each end of piece, wetblock to 19 1/4" wide and 52 1/2" long, using blocking wires on long edges if desired. Allow to air dry thoroughly.TucksFor the first set of tucks, find the centerline of the St st rectangle- 41 sts on each side of center. Mark a series of tucks along this centerline as foll: Beg at end with last row of sts worked, measure down 3 3/4" from the cir needle holder and place a removable marker directly in the fabric, then measure down7'1/2'' (19 em) directly below the previous m and place a removable min the fabric] 6 times-7 markers along centerline; the top and bottom mare each 3%" (9.5 em) from the end of the fabric.For the second and third sets oftucks,count in 10 sts from the selvedge along each long side. Mark a series oftucks along the line at each side,10 sts from the selvedge,as foil: Beg at end with the last row of sts worked,measure down 7112'' (19 em) from the cir needle holder and place a removable m directly in the fabric,[then measure down 71h" (19 em) from previous m and place a removable min the fabric] 6 times-14 side markers total; 7 markers at each side placed 10 sts in from the edge; the bottom mat each side is just above the needle holding the provisional COsts.To sew the center tucks, thread a length of yarn on a tapestry needle and anchor it securely to the WS at a marked centerline position. With RS of fabric facing you,bring the needle up through the fabric from WS to RS 7 sts to the left of the marked position. Skim the needle through the st that is 7 sts to the left of the marked position,then through the stat the marker, then through the st that is 7 sts to the right of the marked position-3 sts caught on the tucking strand. Pull strand to draw the 3 sts tog,then sew through all 3 sts again 8 to 10 times using an overhand st. Fasten yarn invisibly on WS under the tuck. Work a center tuck at each of the rem 6 marked centerline positions.
To sew the side tucks along the right-hand edge of the fabric, thread a length of yarn on a tapestry needle and anchor it securely to theWS at a marked position. With RS of fabric facing you,bring the needle up through the fabric from WS toRS 10 sts to the left of the marked position. Skim the needle through the st that is 10 sts to the left of the marked position, then through the stat the marker,then through the selvedge st that is 10 sts to the right of the marked position-3 sts caught on the tucking strand. Finish as for center tuck. Work a tuck at each of the rem 6 marked positions along the right-hand edge of the fabric.To sew the side tucks along the left-hand edge of the fabric, thread a length of yarn on a tapestry needle and anchor it securely to theWS at a marked position. With RS of fabric facing you,bring the needle up through the fabric from WS toRS 10 sts to the right of the marked position. Skim the needle through the st that is 10 sts to the right of the marked position, then through the stat the marker,then through the selvedge st that is 10 sts to the left of the marked position-3 sts caught on the tucking strand. Finish as for center tuck. Work a tuck at each of the rem 6 marked positions along the left-hand edge of the fabric.Join short ends.
Hold cir needles parallel with WS touching and RS facing out,being careful not to twist piece. Use the Kitchener st forSt st to graft the live sts at the ends tog.
Back Seam
Lay piece flat with selvedges running horizontally across the top and bottom and the Kitchener join
positioned vertically in the center of the side facing you. Measure out 41h" (11.5 em) on each side of the join along the top edges and pin both layers tog at these points. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle,use the mattress st to sew the two layers tog between the marked points.There will be about 8112" (21.5 em) left unsewn at each side of the top edge; these unsewn sections form the armholes.
Weave in loose ends.
