Right Time for Wristers!

This fingerless glove pattern from Lion Brand Yarn is perfect for this time of year. Any last minute gifts to knit up?...

SIZE: Medium

MATERIALS
• 620-197 Lion Brand Wool-Ease® Yarn: Burgundy
1 Ball (A)
• 861-134 Lion Brand Vanna's Glamour®: Copper
1 Ball (B)
• Lion Brand Double-Pointed Needles - Size 8
 Stitch Markers
•Stitch Holders
• Large-Eyed Blunt Needles

• Additional Materials
Double pointed knitting needles size 10 1/2 (6.5 mm), set of 5
Alternative Colorway: 1 ball Wool-Ease: Navy (Article #620-111)
1 ball Vanna's Glamour: Sapphire (Article #861-109)
 
GAUGE:
12 sts = 4 in. (10 cm) in St st worked in the rnd (k every rnd) with larger needles and
1 strand each of A and B held together. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you
match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and
the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you less stitches and
rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more
stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION:
NOTES:
These extra-long wristers are meant to cover your fingers. Roll down the tops to
expose them.
Wristers are worked with 1 strand each of A and B held tog throughout.
Alternative colorway: 1 ball Wool-Ease in Navy (Article #620-111) and 1 ball Vanna's Glamour
in Sapphire (Article #861-109).

WRISTERS (make 2)
With 1 strand each of A and B held tog and smaller needles cast on 20 sts.
Divide sts even onto 4 needles and join, being careful not to twist sts. Place marker for beg of rnd.
Work in K1, p1 Rib for 2 in (5 cm), then work in Seed st for 4 rnds.
 
Shape Thumb Gusset
Change to larger needles.
Rnd 1: K2, place marker, m1, k1, m1, place marker, k to end of rnd – 22 sts.
Rnds 2-4: K to first marker, slip marker, k to next marker, slip marker, k to end of rnd.
Rnd 5: K2, sl marker, m1, k to next marker, m1, sl marker, k to end of rnd.
Rep last 4 rnds until there are 9 sts between markers.
Knit 3 rnds.
Next Rnd: K to first marker, sl 9 sts between markers to a holder, cast on 3 sts, k to end of rnd– 22 sts.
 
Hand
Continue in St st as established (k every rnd) until piece measures about 8 in. (20.5 cm) from beg.
Roll-Down Edging
Work 4 rnds in Seed st.
Change to smaller needles and work in K1, p1 Rib until piece measures about 10 in. (25.5 cm) from beg.
Bind off.
 
Thumb
From right side, with 1 strand each of A and B held tog, larger double pointed needles, and leaving a long tail
of A, pick up and k2 sts along edge of hand, then k 9 sts from holder.
Divide sts even onto 4 needles and join, being careful not to twist st. Place marker for beg of rnd.
Work in St st until thumb measures about 1 in. (2.5 cm).
Next Rnd: K2tog, k to end of rnd.
Work 2 rnds in Seed st.
Change to smaller double pointed needles and work in K1, p1 Rib until thumb measures about 2 in. (5 cm).
 
Bind off.

FINISHING
Use tail of A at thumb edge to sew any gaps at base of thumb.
Weave in ends.

Warm Worm Hat

This hat will adjust to your hair style of day!

Yarn
2 skeins of lana grossa cool wool 2000 (100% merino, 160m per 50g, shown in shade 536 plum)

Needles
4 mm circular needles, using magic loop method
3.5 mm dpns or circular needle for starting, using magic loop method
1 stitch marker to mark beginning of round
1 tapestry needle to weave in ends

Gauge
24 stitches and 34 rows = 10cm in stockinette stitch with smaller needles

Sizes: small (medium/large)

Pattern
co 90 (100/110) sts using 3.5 mm dpns, place stitch marker and join for round k 12 rnds (you can try and use circular needles after a few rounds, it’s much faster, use magic loop method if you got a long circular needle)
p 1 rnd, k 13 rnds
fold at purl round (with knit side facing and purl side inside the double blending), pick up first st from cast on edge and k together with live st, repeat this for making a double edging of hat
knit 1 rnd, then switch to 4 mm needles
inc rnd: *k10, m1 *repeat
begin main pattern: *p 5 rnds, k 4 rnds *repeat 10 times (or after you reached length), end with p rnds
dec rnd 1: *k1, k2tog *repeat
k 1 rnd
dec rnd 2: *k1, k2tog *repeat
k 1 rnd
dec rnd 3: *k2tog *repeat, break yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight and fasten off.

Felted Petite Knitting Bag

How cute is this little bag to keep and tote your small knitting projects in!


Materials
3 50 gms balls of Cleckheaton Vintage Hues (the color used is 1270)(you can also use any other yarn which have to be 100% wool for felting)
6mm or 6.5mm circular needles (60 cm length)

Measurements
Before felting:
Base – 26 cm
Height – 33 cm
Handle – 32cm

After felting:
Base – 15 cm
Height – 18 cm
Handle – 24 cm

Base
(If you are not familiar with Magic Cast-on or Magic Loop, you can use double pointed needles (dpns) to cast on & then join in the round.)
Using the Magic Cast-on, cast on 8 stitches (4 stitches on each needle).

Now using the Magic Loop method, start knitting.
Round 1 & all odd rounds – knit
Round 2 – kfb into every stitch (16 stitches)
Round 4 – *k1, kfb* all around (24 stitches)
Round 6 – *k2, kfb* all around (32 stitches)
Round 8 – *k3, kfb* all around (40 stitches)
Round 10 – *k4, kfb* all around (48 stitches)
Round 12 – *k5, kfb* all around (56 stitches)
Round 14 – *k6, kfb* all around (64 stitches)
Round 16 – *k7, kfb* all around (72 stitches)
Round 18 – *k8, kfb* all around (80 stitches)
Round 20 – *k9, kfb* all around (88 stitches)
Round 22 – *k10, kfb* all around (96 stitches)
Round 24 – *k11, kfb* all around (104 stitches)
Round 26 – *k12, kfb* all around (112 stitches)
Purl 3 rounds.

Body
Carry on knitting every round until the bag is 33 cm high.

Handles
Cast off 19 stitches, knit the next 18 stitches, cast off another 38 stitches, knit
the next 18 stitches & cast off the last 19 stitches.
Rejoin yarn to the 1st set of 18 stitches
Row 1 – knit
Row 2 – purl
Row 3 – k2 tog, knit till the last 2 stitches, k2 tog (16 stitches)
Row 4 – purl
Repeat the above 4 rows for another 3 times until there are 10 stitches left.
Continue knitting these 10 stitches until the handle is 16 cm long.
Do not cast off & leaves stitches on a stitch holder. Cut yarn but leave a 20 cm tail.

Rejoin yarn to the next set of 18 stitches & repeat the decreases & continue knitting until the handle is 16 cm long.
You can now cast off the 10 stitches on each of the handle using the 3-needle bind-off.
Weave in all the ends & you are ready for felting.

Magic Cast-on & Magic Loop
http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring06/FEATmagiccaston.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhBIS0AhhQY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtBSmxGomPk
3-needle Bind Off
http://www.stitchdiva.com/custom.aspx?id=189

Felt your bag in a top loading machine on a regular hot/cold cycle. Put your knitted piece in a laundry bag & put the laundry bag in the machine with a towel. Add a little teaspoon of wool wash. Check the machine after 10 mins as you don’t want your bag to be over felted.
Happy felting !

Felted City Bag

This cute bag will take you from daytime to nightime in record time.

Materials:
2 hanks (100 grams each) Caledon Hills Worsted Wool (color shown: CH841)
Size 10.5 U.S. Circular Needles (24")
4 Stitch Markers
Tapestry Needle
Magnetic Snap Closure or 1” Button for front closure (as shown)
Sewing Needle & Thread if using button
Optional for Convenience: Size 10.5 U.S. Straight Needles & Double Pointed Needles

Gauge:
Felts to approximately 80% of original size -- Gauge not vital for this project

Finished Size: Approximately 12" x 6" x 4" after felting.

Pattern Notes:
1. Hold 2 strands of yarn together throughout.
2. Bag will be at a loose gauge until it is machine felted.
3. Special thanks to Elizabeth Zimmermann for I-cord.

Abbreviations:
PM = Place Marker
K2tog = Knit two together as 1 stitch (creates a right leaning slant)
K = Knit
P = Purl

Instructions:
1. For Bag Bottom & using double strand of yarn and size 10.5 circular needles, cast on 45 stitches.
2. Knit every row for 16 rows (8 garter ridges).
3. For Bag Body, place 1st marker (PM) at end of row.
4. Pick up 8 stitches or 1 stitch for each ridge along side & PM (2nd marker) at side edge.
5. Pick up 45 stitches along bottom edge (1 for each cast on stitch) & PM (3rd marker) at end of row.
6. Pick up 8 stitches (1 stitch for each garter ridge) along side & PM (4th marker) to designate end of round -- 104 stitches total.
7. Work even by knitting every round for 7" or 28 rows.
Please Note: The first round or 2 may be a bit tight on your needles.
8. Begin decreases as follows:
Decrease round 1: Decrease 8 stitches evenly spaced knitting two stitches together (K2tog) across bag front between markers 4 and 1; 37 stitches remain. K2tog between markers 1 and 2; 4 stitches remain. Knit 45 stitches between markers 2 and 3. K2tog between markers 3 and 4; 4 stitches remain. Total 90 stitches.
Knit next round even.
Decrease round 2: K2tog between markers 1 and 2; 2 stitches remain and between markers 3 and 4; 2stitches remain. Total 88 stitches.
Knit 3 rounds even.
9. For Bag Flap & beginning at marker 3, bind off all stitches between markers 3 and 4, markers 4 and 1, and markers 1 and 2 -- 45 stitches remain.
10. Knit 3 stitches, PM, work to within 3 stitches of end of row, PM, K last 3 stitches.
11. Knit first 3 stitches, slip marker, purl to within 3 stitches of end of row, slip marker, knit last 3 stitches.
12. Repeat rows 10 and 11 for 6" or 22 rows.
13. Knit 3 rows.
14. Bind off all stitches as if to knit.

Bag Closure:
Note: You may choose to omit the buttonhole (below) by simply working all rows, omitting the buttonhole and using a magnetic closure that can be attached to the bag under a decorative button.
1. Using double strand, cast on 10 stitches.
2. Knit all rows for 20 rows or 10 ridges.
3. To start Buttonhole, K 3 stitches, cast off 4 stitches, K last 3 stitches (including the stitch remaining after casting off the 4th stitch.)
4. To complete Buttonhole, K 3 stitches, cast on 4 stitches by using backward loop, K 3 stitches (10 stitches total).
5. Knit 5 rows.
6. Bind off all stitches as if to knit.

Bag Strap (I-Cord):
1. Using double pointed needles and 2 strands of yarn held together, cast on 5 stitches.
2. Make EZ’s I-cord by sliding all stitches to opposite end of needle and knit.
3. Repeat until strap measures approximately 36 inches but be sure to save enough yarn for finishing.

Finishing:
1. Securely attach I-cord strap to bag at each side of the bag body, centering over the 2 stitches at each side.
2. Center bag closure on bag flap, about 1 ½ to 2 inches from flap edge and with buttonhole (if applicable) centered at the front of the bag body.
3. Whip stitch closure to bag flap, securing along all edges.
4. Darn in and trim any loose ends.
5. Place the bag in an old pillow case or lingerie bag to protect your washing machine from lint.
6. Fill machine at low level on hot water/cold rinse cycle. Add a drop or two of detergent such as Joy liquid soap,
and run normal cycle.
7. Check bag every 5 minutes or so to be sure strap is not twisted and that bag is felting to desired size.
8. Stop machine after most water has been drained, but before the spin cycle has completed to prevent deep
and sometimes permanent creases from forming in the felt.
9. Remove bag from machine and shape bottom, sides and fold flap over front of bag. If not sufficiently felted, repeat machine cycle again.
10. Allow bag to sit on a flat surface until completely dry. Since the felt is thick, this may take up to two days.
11. You may wish to lightly stuff the bag with plastic bags or bubble wrap to maintain shape. To aid in shaping the bag bottom, cut to size a piece of Styrofoam or foam core board.
12. Check your bag regularly as it dries, stretching and shaping as needed to ensure desired shape.
13. Attach button or magnetic closure if desired.

Bumpy Scarf

Using the Lumpy Bumpy Yarn (yes that's the name of the yarn!), you can make a one of a kind scarf!


Size
Approximately 60” long x 3 ½” wide.

Materials
Yarn-One skein Lumpy Bumpy Yarn by Farmhouse Yarns, 4 oz, 150 yards; 99% merino, 1% nylon (available at www.purlsoho.com).
Needles- Size 11 needles.

Gauge- Not important.

Directions
CO 9 sts.
Row 1: k9.
Row 2: At beg of row, CO 4 sts as follows: k1 and leaving old st on left needle, place new st from right needle twisted onto the left needle. Repeat, always knitting into the st just created until you have added 4 new sts. (13 sts on needle). Without turning your work, BO 4 sts, k rem 9 sts.
Row 3: As row 2.
Row 4: k9.
Repeat these 4 rows until you reach 60” or desired length. BO all sts.

Ice Cream Pint Cozys

Happy Memorial Day! It's officially summertime and ice cream is a plenty. This project is a great way to use your scrap wool yarn. (because you'll be felting!) You have time to whip up some red, white and blue ones for the 4th of July!

Size
To fit a Ben and Jerry’s pint, other pints may vary slightly: 10" bottom circumference, 11.25" top circumference and 2¾–3" tall.
Materials:
Yarn-Pick Up Sticks “small balls” of wool yarn- Two 65 yd
balls will yield two cozies! Or 65 yds of any other combo of wool yarn.
Colors
• Neapolitan Dynamite: chocolate, cream and hot pink
• Cherry Garcia: cream and red
• Americone Dream: chocolate and moss

Pints 2 or more Ben and Jerry’s pint-sized Ice Creams, 1 to shape the cozies, 1 to eat; see note.
Note: the pints need to be full, an empty pint container will collapse under the pressure of a damp cozy.
Needles- #10 –11 US circular needle 16" OR 36" using magic loop method.

Gauge
Felted: approx 9 sts and 19 rows = 2" square (pre-felted gauge is unimportant).

Directions
Note: Cozy is worked from top down so start with top color!
CO 52 sts, join being careful not to twist and work 4 rnds of garter st. Switch to St st and in the 2nd rnd of St st dec as follows:
[k 11, k2tog] four times; 48 sts.

Cont in St st and in 14th rnd work dec as follows:
[k10, k2tog] four times; 44 sts.
Cont in St st until the last 4 rnds; work 4 rnds garter st, BO in last rnd. If working a one color cozy, a total of 28 rnds should be worked to get a 2¾–3" tall cozy.

Color sequences of samples
Neapolitan Dynamite
9 rnds each of hot pink, cream and chocolate Cherry Garcia
[4 rnds red, 4 rnds cream] repeat 3 times, end 4 rnds red.
Americone Dream
10 rnds moss, 18 rnds chocolate

Once felted, turn your pint upside down and force the cozy over the pint. Once shaped you can pull it back off and allow to dry...or flip rightside up, open pint and reward yourself!

Weekend Lapghan

A great throw for your sofa or favorite chair!

SIZE: One Size 46 x 60 in. (117 x 152.5 cm)

MATERIALS
• 640-402 Lion Brand Wool-Ease® Thick & Quick Yarn: Wheat 6 Balls
•Knitting Needles - Size 50 [25 mm] ('Speed Stix')
•Crochet Hook - Size P-15
•Large-Eye Blunt Needle
•Additional Materials- 11 in. (28 cm) piece of cardboard

GAUGE: 9 sts = 8 in. (20.5 cm) in pattern. GAUGE IS NOT ESSENTIAL FOR THIS PROJECT. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

LAPGHAN
Cast on 53 sts. Row 1: K3, *yarn over, slip 1, k1, pass slipped st over, rep from * across row. Rep Row 1 until a total of 80 rows have been worked. Piece should measure about 60 in. (152.5 cm) from beginning. Bind off.

FINISHING
Fringe
Wrap yarn around cardboard and cut 162 strands of yarn approximately 22 in. (56 cm) long. For each fringe, hold 3 strands of yarn together and fold in half. Use crochet hook to draw fold through edge of Lapghan, forming a loop. Pull ends of Fringe through this loop. Pull to tighten. Make Fringe in every other stitch along top and lower edges of Lapghan. Trim Fringe ends evenly. Weave in ends.

Harry Potter- Order of the Phoenix Hat

What a cool hat for all your Harry Potter Fans! I may have to knit one up! And a quote from Harry:
"You sort of start thinking anything's possible if you've got enough nerve."
Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix

Yarn: 1 skein of malabrigo merino wool
Tools: #7 Single Points, Tapestry Needle

Sizing: 22 stitches for babies, 66 stitches for kids & adults

Cast on/Brim (Kids Size/66 stitches)
Cast on 22/66 stitches and work 20 rows, knitting both ways to create garter stitch brim
Body of hat start stockinette and knit for 20 rows (for adult sizes, or for hats that need
to be more hat, less beanie, add another 20 rows, for a total of 40 before you start to
decrease for the crown.
Create crown (decrease)
Next row - knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together
Next row - purl 2 together, purl 1, purl 2 together
Repeat above set 2 times
Next row: knit 2 together every stitch
Next row: purl 2 together every stitch
Continue knitting 2 together till you have 6-8 stitches on the needles.

Leaving a really long tail, cut your yarn. Thread tail onto tapestry needle, thread through remaining stitches on needle and pull to close stitches together.

Fold hat so that stockinette right side is facing in, stitch from crown to bottom of brim using tapestry needle threaded with tail. Tie off, fold right side out.

Thanks to: fabulousyarn.com

Pom-Pom Hat...thinking gifts for next season...

Yes, spring is here...we are now in daylight savings time...but, you will need to make holiday gifts for December. What???? Yep, I know we haven't even gotten a chance to put on our swimwear (ick!), but think of making this spring and summer your chance to make some great gifts for your family and friends. Not just to help in this still, horrifying economy, but to give a very special personal gift to those around you that will say more than any tweet or facebook comment ever could.

So this hat would be great for any snowboarders or skiers or anyone that lives in a cold winter climate!

Yarn Any skein of yarn approx 140 yards or more, worsted weight
Shown on photo- Blue Sky Mutlicolored Cotton, Marmalade.
Tools #5 Set of DP needles, stitch holder, darning needle

EARFLAPS & HAT
Start first tie/earflap:
1. Create knit tie for earflap: Cast on 3 sts work in garter stitch for 9 inches until you have your first tie - this turns into the earflap.

Increase width of tie to turn into Earflap:
Keep knitting in garter stitch, but start increasing the width of the tie you’ve just knit by adding a stitch at the beginning of each row. Continue adding stitches this way until you have 12 stitches on your needle. Place this first Tie/Earflap piece on a stitch holder.
Repeat from 1. to create second earflap.
Working with the 2nd earflap that is on your needles, you are now going to create the first row in the body of the hat and attach the first earflap you made to that row and then continue knitting in the round to make the body of the hat. On your needles is the second earflap. Cast on an additional 14 stitches - this begins to build the body of the hat.

Attach second earflap Move the first earflap you made from the stitch holder onto the needles, attaching it to the knitting by knitting across it.

Create additional row to make body of hat Cast on an additional 26 stitches, join to first earflap(use marker if you need to to mark this stop, which is where you will change from knit to purl on each row for the next 6-8 rows to create the brim).
Brim of hat continue to knit in the round in garterstitch (purl a row, knit a row, repeat) for 1 1/2 inches. This creates the ‘brim’ of the hat.
Body of hat start working in stockinete stitch (knit every row) for 4 inches. Knit two to- gether on all stitches for the next three rounds. Run yarn through remaining stitches with darning needle. Sew in all ends.

Poms and tassles for top of hat and end of ties:
POM- Hold four fingers out wraoping the yarn around your fingers wrap with as many loops of cotton as you can - the more you loop, the poofier your pom. Leave a very long tail and cut the yarn. Slide the wad off your fingers, make a loop thru the bottom of the wad of loops, and pull tightly to tie off and anchor the loops. Taking a length of the yarn, wrap the bottom of the tassle to create a band at the bottom of the pom. Tie it really tightly. Using scissors, slide thru the unbanded end of the loop to cut open the untied end
of the loops. Fluff with fingers. Using a tapestry needle, come up from inside the hat, up and thru the bottom of the pom, and back into the hat three or four times. Tie off INSIDE the hat. Fluff the pom.

TASSLES- Same as the POM, use the wrap method to create a bunch of loops around fingers - except this time, - use as many fingers as you can, and make the loops as LONG as you can. Some people use a piece of cardboard to make really LONG loops. Using the same method as the POM, tie off the bottom of the loops, wrap a band around the
bottom of the tassle, and cut the untied ends of the loops open. Using a tapestry needle, sew the tassles onto the ends of the ties.

from: www.Fabulousyarns.com

The Little Coco Bag

A felted tote with a tailored look from Diane Sutliff
Materials:
2 skeins Cascade 220 (or comparable yarn) in Main Color
1 skein Cascade 220 (or comparable yarn) in Contrasting Color
#13 24” circular needles
a box about 4” x 10” x 12” eight 1/4” (6mm) grommets or eyelets, with setter tool and hammer

Gauge:
Since this is a felted project, gauge is unimportant. The large needle size ensures your knitting will be very loose, essential for successful felting. The base and body of this felted bag are worked with two strands of yarn. If you prepare your yarn as a center-pull ball, you can knit from both the inside and outside of the ball to make a double strand.

The Base:
With the Contrasting Color yarn, cast on 30 stitches.
Row 1: *Knit 1, slip 1*, repeat between *s until 2 stitches remain, knit 2.
Row 2: With yarn in front, slip 1 (as if to purl), purl to end.
Row 3: With yarn in back, *slip 1 (as if to purl), knit 1*, repeat between *s to end.
Row 4: as row 2
Row 5: With yarn in back, slip 1, *slip 1, knit 1* repeat between *s until 3 stitches remain.
Slip 1, knit 2.
Row 6: as row 2
Row 7: as row 3
Row 8: as row 2
Repeat rows 5-8 five times for a total of 28 rows.
Row 29: With yarn in back, slip 1 (as if to purl), knit all.

Picking Up Stitches All Around the Base:
Because you have slipped the first stitch of each row, you now have neat and tidy stitches
along the edges of your work – perfect for picking up! You should be able to count 14 stitches
along each side of the base.
Pick up 14 stitches along the left side of the base. Pick up 30 stitches along the original caston
edge of the base. Pick up 14 stitches along the last side of the base. Place marker. You
should have a total of 88 stitches and be set to knit the body of the bag in the round.

The Piped Edge:
To give the base a nice, crisp edge and a little more strength, we will make a piped edge along
the base using the contrasting color yarn.
Continuing with the Contrasting Color, knit two rows in the round, ending at the marker.
Switch to the Main Color. *With the right needle, pick up the back of the stitch 3 rows below the first stitch on the left needle. (see photo) (This stitch will be from the “knit all” row before you began picking up stitches around the base of the bag.) Place this stitch on the left needle. Knit 2 together.*
Repeat between *s around the base of the bag until you reach the marker.

The Body:
Continuing with the Main Color, knit all rows until the height of the bag is about one-and-ahalf
times as long as the front of the base of the bag (the original 30 cast on stitches. You
should have very little yarn left. Stop at the marker, break off yarn.
The bag may seem too tall, but remember you lose about one-third of the height of the bag
and only one-fourth of the bag in width when you felt.

The I-Cord Cast Off:
With two strands of the Contrasting Color, cast three stitches on the left needle.
*Knit 2. Slip1 (as if to purl). Knit 1 (this will be a stitch from the body of the bag.) With the left needle, pass the slipped stitch over the last knit stitch. Slip the three Contrasting Color
stitches back onto the left needle.* Repeat between *s all around the top of the body of the bag
until all body stitches have been knitted. Cast off the three stitches, leaving a long tail. With the tail, weave the ends of the I-cord cast-off together as seamlessly as you can so there is not
lump when the felting is complete.

The I-Cord Strap:
With Contrasting Color and continuing to double-strand, cast on 2 stitches. *Knit 2. Slip these two stitches back onto the left needle.* Repeat between *s until your I-cord measures about 9
feet without stretching.

Felting:
Place your bag and the I-cord in a zippered pillowcase or in a regular pillowcase held closed with a snug rubber band. Set your top-loading washer on the smallest load size. Add just a
few tablespoons of laundry soap. Set the water temp to hot wash/cold rinse. Place the loaded pillowcase and one or two pairs of jeans in the washer. Do not use towels or other types of fabric, because they will release lint that will lock itself into your felt. Start the washer. You might want to check on the progress of your felting during the cycle while you become more familiar with the felting process. Fully felted fabric should no longer have visible stitches, and should not stretch much when pulled on the bias.
The cold water rinse gives an additional shock to the wool and helps the felting process along. With Cascade 220 yarns and the hottest water I could muster, the handbags in the photo took two complete cycles. Some felting guides recommend skipping the spin cycle, because it can create creases in your finished product. These creases can often be steamed out with an iron. If you opt not to use the spin cycle, squeeze the handbag in a thirsty towel to get out as much water as possible, so the bag will dry within your lifetime.

Blocking:
To give the Coco Bag its distinctive rectangle shape, you need a box that is just the right size: 10” x 4” x 12”. Amazon often ships in a perfect box, so save your packages! I was able to purchase shipping boxes at an office supply store that measured 10” x 4” x 6”, and stacked two high.
Cover the box(es) with a plastic grocery sack and stretch the damp, shriveled, felted bag over the box. Stretching is good! The snugger the fit, the crisper the shape of the final bag. (You
might even decide at this point to run the bag through an additional wash cycle.) Put the bag near a radiator or heat vent and let dry. This might take a few days, depending on how wet your bag is to start. Stretch out the damp I-cord, and hang it to dry. Really stretch it!

Finishing:
When the bag is perfectly dry, trim off any excess ends of yarn that have worked free. They will look like little rainbow dreadlocks. DO NOT CUT OFF THE TAILS OF YARN AT EITHER END OF YOUR I-CORD! Those ends will help you thread the I-cord through the eyelets.

5-Way Big Brim Hat

How would you like to knit a hat you can wear 5 different ways...it all depends on your mood that day!

YARN
Naturally Caron.com Country
75% Microdenier acrylic, 25% Merino wool; 3oz/100 g, 185 yds/170 m ball):
Color #0017 Claret, 10oz/283g
MATERIALS
Circular size U.S. 10 (6mm) needles, 24"/61cm and 20"/51cm long, or size needed for gauge
Circular size U.S. 8 (5mm) needle, 20"/51cm long
Double-pointed size U.S. 8 (5mm) needles
Yarn needle
Stitch marker

SIZE: Woman's Medium
KNITTED MEASUREMENTS
Approx 27"/68.5cm diameter above brim

NOTES
Size U.S. 8 (5mm) needles are used after working one half of the brim to firm up the hat before working the crown area.
Change to double-pointed needles (dpns) when the crown decreases are worked to accommodate fewer stitches.
All slip sts are slipped purlwise.

GAUGE
In Seed st using size U.S. 10 (6mm) needles, 14 sts and 16 rows=4"/10cm
In Seed st using size U.S. 8 (5mm) needles, 16 sts and 17 rows=4"/10cm
In Fabric St Rib using size U.S. 10 (6mm) needles, 15 sts and 16 rows=4"/10cm
In Fabric St Rib using size U.S. 8 (5mm) needles, 17 sts and 17 rows=4"/10cm

STITCHES USED
Seed Stitch (uneven number of sts):
Row 1 K1, *p1, k1; rep from *.
Row 2 P the k sts and k the p sts
Rep Row 2 for Seed st.
Fabric Stitch Rib (multiple of 6):
Rnd 1 *Bring yarn to front of work, sl 1, k1, bring yarn to front of work, sl 1, p3: rep from * around.
Rnd 2 Knit.
Rnd 3 *K1, bring yarn to front of work, sl 1, p3: rep from *around.
Rnd 4 Knit.
Rep Rows 1-4 for Fabric St Rib patt.

HAT
With larger 24"/61cm long circular needles CO 111 sts. Join to form circle, being careful not to twist sts. Place marker.
Work in Seed st for 3 ¾"/9.5cm for brim.
Change to smaller circular needle. Cont in Seed st until Hat measures 7"/18cm from beg.
Crown
Change to larger 20"/51cm long circular needle.
Dec Rnd: K3tog, k2tog, (k1, k 2tog) 34 times, k1, k3tog--72 sts.
Work in Fabric St Rib patt until Hat measures 16"/40.5cm, ending with Rnd 3.
Top of Crown
Change to smaller circular needle (changing to dpns needles when necessary).
Rnd 1 K2tog around.--36 sts.
Row 2 *Bring yarn forward, sl 1 st, p2; rep from *around.
Row 3 K2tog around--18 sts.
Row 4 (K1, p1) around.
Row 5 K2tog around--9 sts.
Row 6 (P1, k2tog) 3 times--6 sts.
Row 7 K2tog 3 times--3 sts.
Cut yarn and pull tail end through rem 3 sts. Fasten off.

FINISHING
Using yarn needle, weave in ends and block if necessary.

Noro Throw- Easy and Warm

We've made a few throws, but this is Noro...

Finished Dimensions: 40" x 44 1/2" (not blocked)

Yarn:

• Noro Silk Garden, 45%silk, 45% kid mohair and 10% lambswool, worsted weight (1.75 oz/50g, 109 yds/100m) 9 skeins in verigated colorways, your choice of MC
• Cascade Sierra, 80% pima cotton and 20% wool worsted weight. (3.5oz/100g, 192 yds/ 176m) 1 skein for CC crocheted edging.

Needles: 5.5 mm/US 9

Other Materials: 6 mm/US J-10 crochet hook

Directions:

Panel: With MC cast on 50 sts. Work in St st until the first skein is used. Join a second skein of MC and work in Stst until entire skein in used. Now join a third skein of MC and work Stst until skein is nearly used, reserving enough yarn to bind off.

Bind Off.

Repeat Panel instructions for panel 2 and 3.

With mattress stitch, sew the 3 panels together.

Edging: Join CC with crochet hook to edge of throw. Work 3 rounds of single crochet evenly spaced around edge of throw. Fasten off. Weave in loose ends.