Pod Stitch Cowl

An exciting new stitch that makes this cowl really stand out!

MATERIALS

• 640-154 Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick Yarn: Grey Marble 2 Balls

• Size 13 [9 mm] 29-inch [75 cm] Circular Knitting Needles

• Large-Eye Blunt Needles

GAUGE:

12.5 sts = about 4 in. (10 cm) in Pod Stitch.

EXACT GAUGE IS NOT ESSENTIAL FOR THIS PROJECT.

BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION:

M1P (make 1 st as if to purl) An increase worked by lifting the horizontal thread lying between the needles and placing it onto the left needle. Purl this new stitch through the back loop - 1 st increased.

(p1, k1, p1) in next st Purl in next st but do not remove st from needle. Take yarn to back between needles, knit the same st, but do not remove st from needle. Bring yarn to front between needles, purl the same st and remove st from needle - 2 sts increased.

Pod Stitch (multiple of 8 sts)

Rnds 1 and 2: *P5, k1, p1, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 3: *K5tog, k1, M1P, (p1, k1, p1) in next st, M1P, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnds 4-8: *P1, k1, p5, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 9: *M1P, (p1, k1, p1) in next st, M1P, k1, k5tog, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnds 10-12: Rep Rnd 1.

Rep Rnds 1-12 for Pod Stitch.

COWL

Cast on 80 sts. Place marker for beg of rnd. Join by working the first st on left hand needle with the working yarn from the right hand needle and being careful not to twist sts.

Work Rows 1-12 of Pod Stitch twice (24 rows total), then work Rows 1-10 once more - piece should measure about 10 1/2 in. (27 cm) from beg.

Bind off.

FINISHING

Weave in ends.

Easy Eyelet Shawl

This knitted triangle shawl is easy to knit and fun to wear!

SIZE: One Size

29 in. (73.5 cm) at longest point x 56 in. (142 cm) wide

MATERIALS

• 550-099 Lion Brand Pound of Love Yarn: Antique White 1 Ball

• Lion Brand Crochet Hook - Size H-8

• Lion Brand Split Ring Stitch Markers

• Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)

• Additional Materials

Circular knitting needle size 8 (5 mm), 29 in. (73.5 cm) long

GAUGE:

18 sts = about 4 in. (10 cm) in pattern.

EXACT GAUGE IS NOT ESSENTIAL TO THIS PROJECT.

BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

NOTES:

1. Place markers as instructed on Row 3 to mark the center st. On following rows, slip markers each time you come to them.

2. Shawl begins at center back neck and is shaped by working yarn over (yo) increases.

3. A yarn over creates a new loop on your needle and is worked by wrapping the yarn around your right hand needle. Do not use an existing st to make a yarn over. The finished yarn over will leave an open space (like an eyelet) in your knitting-that is part of this design.

4. 2 sts at the beginning and end of every row are always knit.

5. A series of yarn overs and k2togs are worked on Row 9 to create the eyelet pattern.

6. A circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of sts. Work back and forth on the

circular needle as if working on straight needles.

SHAWL

Cast on 5 sts.

Row 1: (RS) K2, yo, k1, yo, k2 - 7 sts at the end of this row.

Row 2: K2, yo, p1, k1, p1, yo, k2 - 9 sts at the end of this row.

Row 3: K2, yo, k2, yo, place marker (pm), k1, pm, yo, k2, yo, k2 - 13 sts at the end of this row.

Row 4: K2, yo, p to marker, sl marker (sm), k1, sm, p to last 2 sts, yo, k2 - 15 sts at the end of this row.

Row 5: K2, yo, k to marker, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2 - 19 sts at the end of this row.

Row 6: Rep Row 4 - 21 sts at the end of this row.

Rows 7 and 8: Rep Rows 5 and 6 - 27 sts at the end of Row 8.

Row 9 (Eyelet): K2, yo, *k2tog, yo; rep from * to 1 st before marker, k1, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k1, **yo, k2tog;

rep from ** to last 2 sts, yo, k2 - 31 sts at the end of this row.

Row 10: K2, p to marker, sl marker (sm), k1, sm, p to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 11: K2, yo, k to marker, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2 - 35 sts at the end of this row.

Row 12: Note: On Row 12, you are knitting across a WS row to form a ridge on the RS of Shawl. Knit, slipping

markers as you come to them.

Row 13: Rep Row 11 - 39 sts at the end of this row.

Rows 14 and 15: Rep Rows 10 and 11 - 43 sts at the end of Row 15.

Row 16: Rep Row 10.

Rep Rows 9-16 for pattern 16 more times - 299 sts.

Bind off as follows: *Insert crochet hook through the next 3 sts and sl off needle, yo and draw through all sts on

hook, chain 5; rep from * across to last 2 sts, insert crochet hook through the last 2 sts and sl off needle, yo and

draw through all sts on hook. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Weave in ends.

Sparkle Lacy Throw

A great throw for your favorite chair or sofa. Use this yarn and you'll have a little sparkle to "throw" around.

MEASUREMENTS
Approx 46 x 56 ins [117 x 142 cm].

MATERIALS
Bernat® Satin Sparkle (80 g/2.8 oz; 146 m/160 yds)
53110 (Sapphire) 12 balls
Size 5 mm (U.S. 8) circular knitting needle 36 ins [90 cm] long or size
needed to obtain gauge.
GAUGE: 18 sts and 24 rows = 4 ins [10 cm] in stocking st.

INSTRUCTIONS
Lace Panel (worked over 9 sts).
1st row: (RS). K1. yo. K1. K2tog. P1. ssk. K1. yo. K1.
2nd and alt rows: P4. K1. P4.
3rd row: As 1st row.
5th row: K2. K2tog. yo. P1. yo. ssk. K2.
7th row: K1. K2tog. yo. K1. P1. K1. yo. ssk. K1.
9th row: K2tog. yo. K2. P1. K2. yo. ssk.
10th row: As 2nd row.
These 10 rows form Lace Panel Pat.

Cast on 180 sts. Do not join. Knit 7 rows (garter st), noting fi rst row is WS and inc 19 sts evenly across last row. 199 sts.
1st row: (RS). *P2. Work 1st row Lace Panel. (P2. K2tog. yo. P2. yo.
ssk) twice. P2. K2tog. yo. Rep from * to last 13 sts. P2. Work 1st row Lace Panel. P2.
2nd row: *K2. Work 2nd row Lace Panel. (K2. P2) 5 times. Rep from * to last 13 sts. K2. Work 2nd row Lace Panel. K2.
3rd row: *P2. Work 3rd row Lace Panel. (P2. yo. ssk. P2. K2tog. yo)
twice. P2. yo. ssk. Rep from * to last 13 sts. P2. Work 3rd row Lace Panel. P2.
4th row: As 2nd row.
Last 4 rows form pat. Lace Panel Pat is now in position.
Cont in pat until approx 54½ ins [138.5 cm] total length ending on a 4th row of Lace Panel Pat.
Next row: (RS). Knit, dec 19 sts evenly across. 180 sts.
Knit 6 rows. Cast off knitwise (WS).
Side edging: (RS). Pick up and knit 226 sts across side edge. Knit 6 rows. Cast off knitwise (WS). Rep along opposite side.

Summer Tank

This tank gives a great summer update...a racerback!

SIZES Small (Medium, Large, X-Large)
KNITTED MEASUREMENTS
Bust 34 (39, 44, 49)”/86.5 (99, 112, 124.5) cm
Length 21½ (22, 23, 23½)”/54.5 (56, 58.5, 59.5) cm
MATERIALS
• 5 (6, 7, 8) balls Filatura Di Crosa TEMPO 51% cotton, 37% acrylic, 12% nylon
(1.75oz/50g; 115yds/105m) in color #03 sunset
• One pair size 5 (3.75mm) needles
• OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
• Stitch holders
• Stitch markers
• Cable needle (cn)
• Yarn needle
GAUGE
20 sts and 24 rows = 4”/10 cm in Stockinette stitch
TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE

SPECIAL TERMS
C4B: Slip 2 sts to cn and hold in back, k2, k2
from cn.
C4F: Slip 2 sts to cn and hold in front, k2, k2
from cn.
C8F: Slip 4 sts to cn and hold in front, k4, k4
from cn.
SPECIAL TECHNIQUE
3-NEEDLE BIND OFF: [Seaming 2 pieces
together as you bind off.] Place sts of pieces to
be joined on separate needles (or each end of a
circular needle), hold one behind the other with
RS facing each other, in LH; with a third needle
(the same size or 1 size larger than used for
knitting the pieces), k2tog [1 from front needle, 1
from back needle – 1 st on RH needle], *k2tog
[you now have 2 sts on RH needle], bind off 1 st
in usual way; rep from * to end.

PATTERN STITCHES
Stockinette stitch (St st)
K2, p2 rib (multiple of 4 sts + 2)
Cable Panel (panel of 10 sts)
Row 1 (RS) P1, k8, p1.
Row 2 and all even number rows K1, p8, k1.
Row 3 P1, C8F, p1
Rows 5 and 7 Rep Row 1.
Rep Rows 1-8 for Cable Panel.
NOTE: Work the FRONT first.

FRONT
Cast on 86 (98, 110, 122) sts.
(RS) Begin k2, p2 rib; work 6 rows.
Row 1 (RS) K38 (44, 50, 56), pm, work Row 1
of Cable Panel, pm, k38 (44, 50, 56).
Row 2 (WS) P38 (44, 50, 56), sm, work Row 2
of Cable Panel, sm, p38 (44, 50, 56).
Cont working in pat as est until piece
measures 14” from beg, end with a WS row.

Shape Left Armhole and Neck
Row 1 (RS) K2, p2, ssk, k30 (36, 42, 48),
k2tog, p1, k4. Turn, leaving rem sts on holder
for Right Armhole and Neck.
Row 2 Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts as
they face you.
Row 3 K2, p2, ssk, knit to last 5 sts, p1, k4.
Row 4 Rep Row 2.
Row 5 K2, p2, ssk, knit to last 7 sts, k2tog, p1,C4B.
Row 6 Rep Row 2.
Rep Rows 2-6 for 8 (9, 10, 11) times more,
then rep Rows 2-3 once more – 13 (16, 19, 22)sts rem.
Stop Neck shaping, cont cable pat and dec 1 stat Armhole edge every RS row 3 more times –
10 (13, 16, 19) sts rem.
Place rem sts on holder.

Shape Right Armhole and Neck
With RS facing, rejoin yarn at Neck edge.
Slip sts from Right Armhole and Neck holder onto needle.
Row 1 (RS) K4, p1, ssk, knit to last 6 sts, k2tog, p2, k2.
Row 2 Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts as they face you.
Row 3 K4, p1, knit to last 6 sts, k2tog, p2, k2.
Row 4 Rep Row 2.
Row 5 C4F, p1, ssk, knit to last 6 sts, k2tog, p2, k2.
Row 6 Rep Row 2.
Rep Rows 2-6 for 8 (9, 10, 11) times more,
then rep Rows 2-3 once more – 13 (16, 19, 22) sts rem.
Stop Neck shaping, cont cable pat and dec 1 st at Armhole edge every RS row 3 more times – 10 (13, 16, 19) sts rem.
Place rem sts on holder.

BACK
Cast on 86 (98, 110, 122) sts.
(RS) Begin k2, p2 rib; work 6 rows.
(RS) Change to St st; work even until piece
measures 14” from beg, end with a WS row.
Shape Armholes
Row 1 (RS) K2, p2, ssk, knit to last 6 sts,
k2tog, p2, k2.
Row 2 Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts as
they face you.
Rep Rows 1-2 22 (24, 26, 28) more times – 40
(48, 56, 64) sts rem.

Shape Shoulders
(RS) Work 5 (8, 11, 14) sts, bind off 30 (32, 34,
36) sts, work 5 (8, 11, 14) sts.
Place rem sts on holders.
FINISHING
Block pieces to measurements. Join Shoulder
seams using 3-Needle Bind-Off, leaving 5
cable sts on each side on holders.
Neckband (make 2)
Transfer 5 sts from holders to needles. Work
even in pat as est until piece reaches to center
Back Neck. Bind off all sts.
Sew edges of Neckbands to Back Neck. Sew
bound-off edges of Neckbands together to form
back seam. Sew side seams. Weave in ends.

Knitted Coat... Amazing with Leggings!

This knitted coat will look amazing with a pair of leggings or straight leg jeans. This would be an excellent summer project.

Shown in size Small
SIZES
Directions are for women’s size X-Small. Changes for sizes Small, Medium, Large, 1X and 2X are in parentheses.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Bust (closed) – 32(36-40-44-48-52)”
Length – 28(28-28½ -29-29½-30)” including neckband

MATERIALS
11(12-13-15-16-18) Hanks BERROCO SUNDAE (100 grs), #8701 Ale
29” Length circular knitting needles, sizes 13 (9.00 mm) and 15 (10.00 mm) OR SIZE TO

OBTAIN GAUGE
Straight knitting needles, sizes 13 (9.00 mm) and 15 (10.00 mm)
6 St markers
4 St holders
Five 2” buttons
GAUGE
10 sts = 4”; 12 rows = 4” in St st on larger needles
9 sts = 4”; 13 rows = 4” worked over Chart A on larger needles
TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE

Body of this sweater is worked in one piece to the underarm. Sleeves are then joined and yoke is worked in one piece.
SEED STITCH (odd number of sts)
Row 1 (RS): K1, * p1, k1, rep from * across.
Rep this row for Seed St.

SLEEVES (Make 2)
With smaller straight needles, cast on 29(29-32-32-35-35) sts. Knit 6 rows. Change to larger straight needles.
Inc Row (RS): K2, * k in front and back of next st, k2, rep from * across – 38(38-42-42-46-46) sts. Beg with a p row, work even in St st until sleeve measures 10” from beg, end on WS. Bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows. Sl remaining 32(32-36-36-40-40) sts onto holder for yoke.
BODY
With smaller circular needle, cast on 83(91-99-111-119-127) sts. Knit 12 rows. Change to larger circular needle.
Establish Pat St: Row 1 (RS): K9, place marker, work Row 1 of Chart over 19 sts, place marker, work Seed St over 3(7-11-17-21-25) sts, place marker, p1, work Row 1 of Chart over 19 sts, p1, place marker, work Seed St over 3(7-11-17-21-25) sts, place marker, work Row 1 of Chart over 19 sts, place marker, k9.
Row 2: K to first marker, work Row 2 of Chart to next marker, work Seed St to next marker, k1, work Row 2 of Chart over 19 sts, k1, work Seed St to next marker, work Row 2 of Chart to last marker, k to end. Work even in pat as established until piece measures 3” from beg, end on WS.
Buttonhole Row (RS): K4, bind off 2 sts, work to end.
Following Row: Work in pat as established, cast on 2 sts over sts bound off on previous row. Work even in pat as established, making 2 more buttonholes 5” apart. AT THE SAME TIME, when 24 rows of Chart have been completed, end on WS.
Pocket Openings: Next Row (RS): K to first marker, p2, k15 sts then sl these sts to holder, p2, work to 5th marker, p2, k15 sts then sl these sts to holder, p2, k to end.
Following Row (WS): K to first marker, k2, cast on 15 sts, k2, work to 5th marker, k2, cast on 15 sts, k2, k to end – 83(91-99-111-119-127) sts. Continue to work even in pat as established, making buttonholes as directed, until Chart has been completed twice (48 rows), end on WS. Bind off. Piece should measure approximately 17” from beg. With WS facing, using larger circular needle, pick up and k1 st in each bound-off st of body – 83(91-99-111-119-127) sts.
Row 1 (RS): K9, place marker, k to last 9 sts, place marker, k to end.
Row 2: K to first marker, p to last marker, k to end. Work even in pat as established until piece measures 2” above picked-up sts, end on RS.
Shape Armholes: Next Row (WS): K to first marker, p18(20-21-23-25-27), bind off 6 sts, p until there are 17(21-27-35-39-43) sts on needle after bound-off sts, bind off 6 sts, work to end.

YOKE
Joining Row (RS): K27(29-30-32-34-36), k32(32-36-36-40-40) sts from first sleeve holder, k17(21-27-35- 39-43), k32(32-36-36-40-40) sts from second sleeve holder, k to end – 135(143-159-169-187-195) sts.
From here, continue to keep 9 sts at each front edge in Garter St and remaining sts in St st. Work even for 1(1- 1½-2-2½-3)”, end on WS.
Dec Row 1 (RS): K to first marker, * k3(3-3-1-1-1), k2 tog, rep from * 4(4-0-0-6-6) times more, (k2, k2 tog) 23(25-34-37-37-39) times, k to end – 107(113-124-133-143-149) sts. Work even for 1”, end on WS.
Make buttonhole on next row, then work even until piece measures 3” above last dec row, end on WS.
Dec Row 2 (RS): K to first marker, * k2(2-2-0-0-0), k2 tog, rep from * 4(4-0-0-6-6) times more, (k1, k2
tog) 23(25-34-37-37-39) times, k to end – 79(83-89-95-99-103) sts. Work even for 3”, end on WS.
Dec Row 3 (RS): K5, bind off 2 sts, k to first marker, * k1(1-1-0-0-0), k2 tog, rep from * 4(4-0-0-0-0) times
more, k2 tog 23(25-34-36-30-32) times, k3 tog 0(0-0-1-7-7) times, k to end – 51(53-54-57-55-57) sts.
Work even in Garter St for 2”, end on WS. Bind off.

FINISHING
Sew underarm and sleeve seams.
Pocket Linings (Make 2): With WS facing, sl 15 sts from holder to larger straight needle. Knit 1 row on WS.
Work even in St st for 7”, end on RS. Knit 1 row on WS for turning ridge. Work even in St st for 7”, end on WS.
Bind off. Fold pocket lining in half along turning ridge and sew side edges tog. Sew bound-off edge of pocket lining to sts cast-on at top of pocket. Sew on buttons.

Knitted Cotton Market Bag!

Not only will you be Eco-Chic, but you can never have enough totes for going to the market...

SIZE: One size
Finished Measurements: 34" circumference x 13" tall

MATERIALS:
Provence by Classic Elite (100% mercerized Egyptian cotton; 100 gram hank = approx 205 yards)
• 3 hanks 2667 Totally Teal
Needles
• One 29" circular size US 8 (5 mm)
• One set double pointed needles (dpns)
size US 8 (5 mm) (optional)
Or size to obtain gauge
• Stitch marker
GAUGE: 17 sts and 34 rows = 4" in Garter Stitch with 2 strands of yarn held together. Take time to save time, check your gauge.

SPECIAL TERMS:
p2tog: Purl 2 sts together (1 st decreased).
yo: Yarn over (1 st increased).
PATTERN STITCHES:
Garter Stitch (Gtr St):
Straight—Knit all sts
Circular—Rnd 1: Purl.
Rnd 2: Knit.
Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for Circular Gtr St.
Mesh Stitch: (multiple of 2 sts)
Rnd 1: (WS) *P2tog, yo, rep from * around.
Rep Rnd 1 for Mesh St.

NOTE: Base, straps and top section of body are worked in Gtr St with 2 strands of yarn
held together, majority of body is worked in Mesh St with a single strand of yarn.

BASE
With 2 strands of yarn held together, CO 20 sts. (WS) Begin Gtr St; work even until pc meas 14" from beg, end after a RS row.

BODY
Pick-up Row: Note: Dpns may need to be used to turn the corners. Leaving sts on circular
needle, use RH needle to pick-up and knit 52 sts evenly spaced along closest side
edge, 20 sts along CO edge and 52 sts along second side edge—144 sts. Place marker for
beg-of-rnd (BOR), join to sts from last row of base to beg working in-the-rnd. Change to
Circular Gtr St; work even for 8 rnds. Cut 1 strand of yarn, leaving a tail long enough to
weave in. Remove marker, wyib, slip next st purlwise, bring yarn to the front, then slip the
slipped st back to the LH needle, turn so the WS is facing. Replace BOR marker. Note: The
Mesh St is worked with the WS facing. Change to Mesh St; (WS) work even for 11" from beg
of Mesh St. Remove marker, wyib, slip next st purlwise, bring yarn to the front, then slip the
slipped st back to the LH needle, turn so the RS is facing. Replace BOR marker. Join a second
strand of yarn. Change to Circular Gtr St; (RS) with 2 strands of yarn held together, work
even for 8 rnds. BO all sts purlwise.

STRAPS (make 2)
With 2 strands of yarn held together, CO 6 sts. (RS) Begin Gtr St; work even until pc meas
20" from beg, end after a RS row. (WS) BO all sts knitwise.

FINISHING
Lie bag flat and mark the center. Attach 1 strap as follows: sew CO edge of strap 4" to
left of center, sew BO edge of strap 4" right of center. Flip bag over. Rep on other side with
second strap. Block if desired.

Knit Lola!

Our favorite cartoon knitter from Lion Brand Yarn!
Have fun!


SIZE: One Size
About 13 1/2 in. (34.5 cm) tall

MATERIALS
• 860-123 Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Yarn: Beige
1 Ball (A)
• 860-158 Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Yarn: Mustard
1 Ball (B)
• 860-100 Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Yarn: White
1 Ball (C)
• 860-180 Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Yarn: Cranberry 1 Ball (D)
• 860-174 Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Yarn: Olive
1 Ball (E)
• Lion Brand Knitting Needles- Size 5 [3.75 mm]
• Lion Brand Knitting Needles - Size 7 [4.5 mm]
• Lion Brand Stitch Markers
• Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)
• Additional Materials
Fiberfill stuffing
2 black safety eyes, 9 mm
Small amount of black yarn
2 black pipe cleaners
2 wooden toothpicks
2 small wooden beads with center hole large enough to fit onto toothpick
Craft glue

GAUGE:
Exact gauge is not important to this project

STITCH EXPLANATION:
NOTES:
1. Doll is knit flat and then seamed.
2. "Work even" means that you continue to work without doing any increasing or decreasing.
3. When you see "- 12 sts" in the instructions, this tells you how many sts you should have at the end of
that specific row.
4. Lola is knit with smaller needle to create a dense knit fabric, suitable for stuffing.
kfb (knit into front and then back)
An increase worked as follows:
1. Knit the next st through the front loop, but do not remove the st from your left hand needle.
2. Knit the same st once more, this time inserting your needle through the back loop of the st. You will have created 2
loops (sts) on your right hand needle.
3. Drop the st from your left hand needle - you have increased 1 st.

LOLA
HEAD/BODY
Head
Beg at top of head, with smaller needles and A, cast on 6 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2: Kfb in each st to end of row - 12 sts.
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: Kfb in each st to end of row - 24 sts.
Row 5: Purl.
Row 6: *K1, kfb in next st; rep from * to end of row - 36 sts.
Row 7: Purl.
Row 8: *K2, kfb in next st; rep from * to end of row - 48 sts.
Rows 9-21: Work even without increasing (adding sts) or decreasing (subtracting sts) in St st (k on RS, p on WS).
Shape Cheeks
Row 22: K10, kfb in next 4 sts, k20, kfb in next 4 sts, k10 - 56 sts.
Row 23: Purl.
Rows 24-27: Work even in St st.
Row 28: *K2tog, k2; rep from * to end of row - 42 sts.
Row 29: Purl.
Row 30: *K2tog, k1; rep from * to end of row - 28 sts.
Row 31: Purl.
Body Change to B.
Row 32: *K3, kfb in next st; rep from * to end of row - 35 sts.
Row 33: Purl.
Row 34: *K4, kfb in next st; rep from * to end of row - 42 sts.
Rows 35-55: Work even in St st.
Change to C.
Rows 56-61: Work even in St st.
Row 62: *K2tog, k1; rep from * to end of row - 28 sts.
Row 63: Purl.
Row 64: *K2tog; rep from * to end of row - 14 sts.
Row 65: Purl.
Row 66: *K2tog; rep from * to end of row - 7 sts.
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread tail through sts of last row, pull to gather, and knot securely. Leave long tail for sewing.
ARMS (make 2)
Beg at top of Arm, with smaller needles and B, cast on 12 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Rows 2-15: Work even in St st.
Change to A.
Row 16: Knit.
Row 17: Purl.
Row 18: K5, kfb in next 2 sts for thumb, k5 - 14 sts.
Row 19: Purl.
Row 20: K3, (k2tog) 4 times, k3 - 10 sts.
Rows 21-23: Work even in St st.
Row 24: *K2tog; rep from * to end of row - 5 sts.
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread tail through sts of last row, pull to gather, and knot securely. Leave long tail for sewing.

LEGS (make 2)
Beg at top of Leg, with smaller needles and A, cast on 16 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Rows 2-21: Work even in St st.
Change to D.
Row 22: Kfb in next 2 sts, k4, kfb in next 4 sts, k4, kfb in last 2 sts - 24 sts.
Rows 23-25: Work even in St st.
Row 26: (K2tog) 3 times, k to last 12 sts, (k2tog) 3 times - 18 sts.
Row 27: Purl.
Row 28: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog - 16 sts.
Row 29: Purl.
Row 30: K2tog, k4, (k2tog) twice, k4, k2tog - 12 sts.
Row 31: Purl.
Row 32: K2tog, k2, (k2tog) twice, k2, k2tog - 8 sts.
Row 33: Purl.
Row 34: *K2tog; rep from * to end of row - 4 sts.
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread tail through sts of last row, pull to gather, and knot securely. Leave long tail for sewing.

NOSE
Beg at base of Nose, with smaller needles and A, cast on 12 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2: *K3, kfb in next st; rep from * to end of row - 15 sts.
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: *K2tog, k1; rep from * to end of row - 10 sts.
Row 5: Purl.
Row 6: *K2tog; rep from * to end of row - 5 sts.
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread tail through sts of last row, pull to gather, and knot securely.Leave long tail for sewing.

EARS (make 2)
Beg at base of Ear, with smaller needles A, cast on 12 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: *K2tog; rep from * to end of row - 6 sts.
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread tail through sts of last row, pull to gather, and knot securely. Leave long tail for sewing.

HAIR
Beg at top of Hair, with larger needles and C, cast on 6 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2: Kfb in each st to end of row - 12 sts.
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: Kfb in each st to end of row - 24 sts.
Row 5: Purl.
Row 6: *K1, kfb in next st; rep from * to end of row - 36 sts.
Row 7: Purl.
Row 8: *K2, kfb in next st; rep from * to end of row - 48 sts.
Rows 9-12: Work even in St st.
Row 13: Purl.
Row 14: Bind off 14 sts for bangs, k to end of row - 34 sts.
Rows 15-17: Work even in St st.
Row 18: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog - 32 sts.
Row 19: P2tog, p to last 2 sts, p2tog - 30 sts.
Row 20: Rep Row 18 - 28 sts.
Row 21: Rep Row 19 - 26 sts.
Rows 22-27: Work even in St st.
Row 28: Kfb in first st, k across to last st, kfb in last st - 28 sts.
Rows 29-31: Rep Row 28 three times - 34 sts at the end of Row 31.
Bind off.

LARGE CURLS (make 7)
With larger needles and C, cast on 10 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2: Kfb in each st to end of row - 20 sts.
Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
SMALL CURLS (make 4)
With larger needles and C, cast on 6 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2: Kfb in each st to end of row - 12 sts.
Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

FINISHING
Note: Use long yarn tails for sewing.
Following package directions, attach safety eyes to face about halfway down face, above the cheeks. Seam Body, stuffing as you work.
Seam Nose and stuff lightly. Sew Nose to face. With black yarn, embroider a straight st mouth. Seam Hair piece. Sew Hair to head with
the bangs at center. Roll each Curl into a spiral. With long tail, sew a few sts through base of spiral to secure. Sew Curls along face edge
of Hair piece arranging Large and Small Curls as desired. Seam Ears, stuff lightly, then sew to Head.
Seam Arms and Legs, stuff lightly, then sew to Body.
Eyeglasses
Note: Eyeglasses should not be added if doll is for a child.
Bend the end of one pipe cleaner into a curve. Place curve over one Ear. Bend opposite end of pipe cleaner to curve around opposite Ear,
trimming pipe cleaner length to fit to make Eyeglass frame.
Cut 2 lengths of pipe cleaner, each 3 in. (7.5 cm) long. Bend each length into a semi -circle. With Eyeglass frame on doll, wrap ends of
each length around frame to complete the Eyeglasses.
Weave in ends.
SKIRT
Beg at waist, with larger needles and B, cast on 42 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2: *K5, kfb; rep from * to end of row - 49 sts.
Row 3: Purl.
Rows 4-15: Work even in St st.
Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
FINISHING
Seam Skirt, then slip onto Lola and sew to Body at waist, with Skirt seam at back of Body.
SWEATER
SLEEVES (make 2)
Beg at wrist edge, with larger needles and E, cast on 16 sts.
Rows 1-4: Knit, for Garter st (k every row) border.
Row 5 (WS): Purl.
Rows 6-15: Work even in St st.
Raglan Shaping
Row 16: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog - 14 sts.
Row 17: Purl.
Row 18: Knit.
Row 19: Purl.
Row 20: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog - 12 sts.
Rep last 2 rows until 6 sts rem.
Sl rem 6 sts to a st holder and set aside. Make 2nd Sleeve.
BACK
Beg at lower edge, with larger needles and E, cast on 26 sts.
Rows 1-4: Knit, for Garter st border.
Row 5 (WS): Purl.
Rows 6-17: Work even in St st.
Raglan Shaping
Row 18: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog - 24 sts.
Row 19: Purl.
Rep last 2 rows until 16 sts rem.
Sl rem 16 sts to a st holder and set aside.
LEFT FRONT
Beg at lower edge, with larger needles and E, cast on 13 sts.
Rows 1-4: Knit, for Garter st border.
Row 5 (WS): K3 for center front border, p to end of row.
Row 6: Knit.
Rows 7-16: Rep Rows 5 and 6 five times.
Row 17: Rep Row 5.
Raglan Shaping
Row 18: K2tog, k to end of row - 12 sts.
Row 19: K3, p to end of row.
Rows 20-25: Rep last 2 rows 3 times - 9 sts at the end of Row 24.
Row 26: *K2tog, k1; rep from * to end of row - 6 sts.
Sl rem 6 sts to a st holder and set aside.
RIGHT FRONT
Beg at lower edge, with larger needles and E, cast on 13 sts.
Rows 1-4: Knit, for Garter st border.
Row 5 (WS): P to last 3 sts, k3 for center front border.
Row 6: Knit.
Rows 7-16: Rep Rows 5 and 6 five times.
Row 17: Rep Row 5.
Raglan Shaping
Row 18: K to last 2 sts, k2tog - 12 sts.
Row 19: P to last 3 sts, k3.
Rows 20-25: Rep last 2 rows 3 times - 9 sts at the end of Row 24.
Row 26: *K2tog, k1; rep from * to end of row - 6 sts.
Sl rem 6 sts to a st holder and set aside.
FINISHING
Neckband
Sl sts from holders onto larger needle ready to work a WS row, in the following order: 6 sts of Right Front, 6 sts of one Sleeve, 16 sts of
Back, 6 sts of second Sleeve, 6 sts of Left Front - 40 sts.
Join E.
Row 1 (WS): *K2tog, k6; rep from * to end of row - 35 sts.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: *K2tog, k3; rep from * to end of row - 28 sts.
Row 4: Knit.
Bind off.
Sew raglan seams. Sew side and Sleeve seams. Weave in ends.
KNITTING BAG
BAG
With larger needles and D, cast on 18 sts.
Rows 1-4: Work even in Garter st.
Row 5 (WS): Purl.
Rows 6-29: Beg with a k row, work even in St st.
Rows 30-33: Rep Rows 1-4.
Bind off.
HANDLE
With larger needles and D, cast on 40 sts.
Without working any rows, bind off.
FINISHING
Fold Bag in half, bringing bound-off edge up to meet cast-on edge, and seam sides. Sew ends of Handle to top of Bag. Weave in ends.
Knitting Needles (make 2)
Note: Knitting needles should not be included in this project if doll is for a child.
Apply a small amount of glue to one end of toothpick. Insert glued end of toothpick into center hole of wooden bead.Allow to dry.

Oh So Soft Cotton Cowl!

Another cowl, yes, I know summer just started, but now is the time to start making all those winter holiday gifts. And, this is an interesting pattern.



Supplies
Size 10 needles
100% cotton 4 PLY yarn
large sewing needle
button of your choice

SK2P - Slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over k2tog
Directions
Cast on 19 stitches
Row 1 - Purl
Row 2 - K1, *yo, k1, SK2P, k1, yo, k1; repeat from * to end Repeat rows 1 and 2 for desired length (neck warmer should measure no longer than one inch longer than neck circumference. last row - Purl bind off, leave a tail to sew button
Sew the button to the end that you binded off.

The eyelets in the pattern create natural button holes, so you don't have to add any. * If using cotton, remember it will stretch out a little.

Diamond Pattern Shawl With a Sweet Border

This is one sweet shawl...2 different patterns, (one for the border and one for the body), use a soft yarn to make it really sweet. A shawl knit from the bottom up. The border is knit last and attached by
picking up stitches as you work.
The piece is knit back and forth in rows with a circular needle to accomodate the large number of stitches.

Pattern
Size: One size
Finished Measurements: Approx 60”
wide x 313⁄4” long
MATERIALS:
Inca Alpaca by Classic Elite (100% baby alpaca; 50 gram hank = approx 109 yards)
• 5 hanks 1135 Cala Cala Moss

Needles
• 24” circular needle size US 8
(5 mm) Or size to obtain gauge.
GAUGE: 14 sts and 26 rows = 4” in Shawl Pattern. Take time to save time, check your gauge.

PATTERN STITCHES:
Set-up Pattern: (panel of 2 sts inc’d to 11 sts)
(also, see chart)
Row 1: (RS) K1, yo, k1—3 sts.
Row 2: P1, k1, p1.
Row 3: K1, yo, p1, yo, k1—5 sts.
Row 4: P2, k1, p2.
Row 5: K1, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, k1—7 sts.
Row 6: [P1, k1] 3 times, p1.
Row 7: K1, yo, [p1, k1] 2 times, p1, yo, k1—9 sts.
Row 8: P2, [k1, p1] 3 times, p1.
Row 9: K1, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1, yo, k1—11 sts.
Row 10: [P1, k1] 5 times, p1.
Work Rows 1–10 for Set-up Pattern.

Shawl Pattern: (multiple of 8 sts + 3)
(also, see chart)
Row 1: (RS) K1, yo, *p1, yo, ssk, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1,
yo, k1—multiple of 8 sts + 5.
Row 2: P2, k1, *[p3, k1] 2 times; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 3: K1, yo, k1, *p1, k1, yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p1,
k1, yo, k1—multiple of 8 sts + 7.
Row 4: *P1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 5: K1, yo, p1, k1, *p1, k1, p1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts, p1,
k1, p1, yo, k1—multiple of 8 sts + 1.
Row 6: P2, k1, p1, k1, *p1, k1, p3, k1, p1, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts, p1, k1, p2.
Row 7: K1, yo, k1, p1, k1, *[p1, k1] 2 times, yo, ssk, p1, k1; rep from * to last 5 sts,
[p1, k1] 2 times, yo, k1—multiple of 8 sts + 3.
Row 8: Rep Row 4.
Row 9: K1, yo, p1, yo, ssk, k1, *p1, k1, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, k1; rep from * to last
6 sts, p1, k1, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, k1—multiple of 8 sts + 5.
Row 10: P2, k1, *p3, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 11: K1, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, ssk, *p1, k2tog, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, ssk; rep from *
to last 7 sts, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, k1—multiple of 8 sts + 7.
Row 12: Rep Row 4.
Row 13: K1, yo, [p1, k1] 2 times, p1, yo, *sk2p, yo, [p1, k1] 2 times, p1, yo; rep
from * to last st, k1—multiple of 8 sts + 1.
Row 14: P1, *[p1, k1] 3 times, p2; rep from * to end.
Row 15: K1, yo, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1, *yo, ssk, [p1, k1] 3 times; rep from * to last st,
yo, k1—multiple of 8 sts + 3
Row 16: Rep Row 4.
Rep Rows 1–16 for Shawl Pattern.

Edge Pattern: (any number of sts)
Row 1: (RS) K1, yo, knit to last st, yo, k1—2 sts inc’d.
Row 2: Knit.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 for Edge Pattern.

Border Pattern: (panel of 17 sts)
Row 1: (RS) Knit the eyelet tog with the first st, k2, [yo, p2tog] 2 times, yo, k1-tbl,
k2tog, p1, ssk, k1-tbl, yo, k3.
Row 2: K3, p3, k1, p3, k2, [yo, p2tog] 2 times, k1, wyif insert RH needle into the
next eyelet hole along the selvedge edge from the RS to the WS, turn.
Rows 3–4: Rep Rows 1 and 2.
Row 5: Knit the eyelet tog with the first st, k2, [yo, p2tog] 2 times, yo, k1-tbl, yo,
k2tog, p1, ssk, yo, k4—panel of 18 sts.
Row 6: K4, p2, k1, p4, k2, [yo, p2tog] 2 times, k1, wyif insert RH needle into the
next eyelet hole along the selvedge edge from the RS to the WS, turn.
Row 7: Knit the eyelet tog with the first st, k2, [yo, p2tog] 2 times, yo, k1-tbl, k1,
k1-tbl, yo, sk2p, yo, k5—panel of 19 sts.
Row 8: K5, p7, k2, [yo, p2tog] 2 times, k1, wyif insert RH needle into the next
eyelet hole along the selvedge edge from the RS to the WS, turn.
Row 9: Knit the eyelet tog with the first st, k2, [yo, p2tog], yo, k1-tbl, k3, k1-tbl,
yo, k7—panel of 21 sts.
Row 10: BO 4 sts knitwise (1 loop rem on RH needle), k2, p7, k2, [yo, p2tog] 2
times, k1, wyif insert RH needle into the next eyelet hole along the selvedge
edge from the RS to the WS, turn—panel of 17 sts.
Rep Rows 1–10 for Border Pattern.

Shawl
CO 2 sts. (RS) Begin Set-up Patterb; work for 10 rows—11 sts. Change to Shawl
Patterb; work 160 rows (10 reps), end after WS row 16—171 sts. Change to
Edge Patterb; work 5 rows, end after RS row 1—177 sts. (WS) BO all sts knitwise.
Do NOT break yarn; leave 1 loop on needle.

Border
Use Knitted Method to CO 1 st, then use the Cable Method to CO 15 more
sts—17 sts. (WS) Purl 1 row, wyif insert RH needle into the first eyelet hole along
the selvedge edge from the RS to the WS, turn. (RS) Begin Border Pattern; work
Border Pattern along selvedge edge until there are only 2 eyelet holes rem
before the point (17 reps). Turn Point: Cont to work Border Pattern, working
2 times each into the 2 eyelet holes before the point, 3 times into the point
eyelet, then 2 times each into the 2 eyelet holes after the point. Resume
working once in each eyelet to end of shawl, end after WS Row 10. (RS) BO all
sts knitwise.

Finishing
Block to measurements, taking extra care to smooth the curve of the point.

Summer Cardi

This short sleeve cutie is perfect for the office or out on a cool summer night! I love this yarn!

Shown in size Small
SIZES
Directions are for women’s size X-Small. Changes for sizes Small, Medium, Large and X-Large are in parentheses.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Bust (closed) – 38(42-46-50-54-58)”
Length – 27½(27½-28½-28½-29½-29½)”
Note: This garment was designed with an oversized fit. Please take this into consideration when selecting your size.

MATERIALS
9(10-12-13-14-15) Hanks BERROCO ORIGAMI (50 grs), #4358 Grape Granita
Straight knitting needles, size 9 (5.50 mm) OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
1 St marker
GAUGE
17 sts = 4”; 23 rows = 4” in Pat St
TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE PATTERN STITCH FOR BACK

Rows 1 and 2: Knit.
Row 3: K12(13-14-15-16-17), * (yo, k1) 12(13-14-15-16-17) times, k12(13-14-15-16-17), rep from * across.
Row 4: Knit, dropping all yo’s.
Rows 5 and 6: Rep Rows 3 and 4.
Rows 7-10: Knit.
Row 11: (Yo, k1) 12(13-14-15-16-17) times, * k12(13-14-15-16-17), (yo, k1) 12(13-14-15-16-17) times, rep from * across.
Row 12: Rep Row 4.
Rows 13 and 14: Rep Rows 11 and 12.
Rows 15 and 16: Knit.

BACK
With straight needles, cast on 86(95-104-110-116-125) sts.
Ribbing: Row 1 (RS): P2, * k1, p2, rep from * across.
Row 2: K2, * p1, k2, rep from * across. Rep these 2 rows until piece measures 2½” from beg, end on WS, dec 0(2-4-3-2-4) sts on last row – 86(93-100-107-114-121) sts. Keeping 1 st at each edge in Garter St and remaining sts in Pat St for Back, work even until piece measures 18(18-18½-18½-19-19)” from beg, end on WS.
Shape Raglan Armholes: Bind off 5(5-6-6-7-7) sts at beg of the next 2 rows – 76(83-88-95-100-107) sts.
Dec 2 sts each side every RS row 0(0-0-2-3-6) times – 76(83-88-87-88-83) sts. Dec 1 st each side every 4th row 6(3-1-0-0-0) times, then every RS row 14(20-25-25-26-23) times, end on WS. Bind off remaining 36(37-36-37-36-37) sts for back neck.

LEFT FRONT
With straight needles, cast on 49(52-58-61-67-70) sts.
Establish Frontband: Row 1 (RS): P2, * k1, p2 rep from * 10(11-13-14-16-17) times more, place
marker, sl 1 WYIB, k13.
Row 2: K13, p1, sl marker, k2, * p1, k2, rep from * across. Work even in pat as established until piece measures 2½”, end on WS.
Pattern Stitch for Left Front: Row 1 (RS): K to marker, sl marker, sl 1 WYIB, k13.
Row 2: K13, p1, sl marker, k to end.
Row 3: K1, work Row 3 of Pat St for Back over 24(26-28-30-32-34) sts, k to marker, sl marker, sl 1 WYIB, k13.
Row 4: K13, p1, sl marker, k to end, dropping all yo’s.
Rows 5 and 6: Rep Rows 3 and 4.
Rows 7-10: Keeping 14 sts at front edge in pat as established, knit remaining sts.
Row 11: K1, work Row 11 of Pat St for back over 24(26-28-30-32-34) sts, (yo, k1) 10(11-14-15-16-17)
times, k to marker, sl marker, sl 1 WYIB, k13.
Row 12: Rep Row 4.
Rows 13 and 14: Rep Rows 11 and 12.
Rows 15 and 16: Rep Rows 7 and 8. Work even in pat as established until piece measures 18(18-18 1/2-18 1/2-19)” from beg, end on WS.
Shape Raglan Armhole and Neck: Next Row (RS): Bind off 5(5-6-6-7-7), work to 2 sts before marker, k2 tog, sl marker, sl 1 WYIB, k13. Work 1 row even. Dec 2 sts at armhole edge every RS row 0(0-0-4-6-10), dec 1 st at armhole edge every 4th row 3(0-0-0-0-0) times, then dec 1 st at armhole edge every RS row 17(23-26-22-21-17) times. AT THE SAME TIME, dec 1 st before marker every 4th row 1(1-4-1-6-3) times
more, then every 6th row 7(7-6-8-5-7) times. When all decs have been completed, work even on 15 sts for neck extension for 7”, end on WS. Bind off.

RIGHT FRONT
Work to correspond to left front, reversing placement of frontband, Pat St and all shaping. Bind off for armhole on WS row. Work neck decs after marker as SSK.

PATTERN STITCH FOR SLEEVES: Rows 1 and 2: Knit.
Row 3: K16(16-17-17-18-18), (yo, k1) 16(16-17-17-18-18) times, k16(16-17-17-18-18).
Row 4: Knit, dropping all yo’s.
Rows 5 and 6: Rep Rows 3 and 4.
Rows 7-10: Knit.
Row 11: (Yo, k1) 16(16-17-17-18-18) times, k16(16-17-17-18-18), (yo, k1) 16(16-17-17-18-18) times.
Row 12: Rep Row 4.
Rows 13 and 14: Rep Rows 11 and 12.
Rows 15 and 16: Knit.
Rep these 16 rows for Pat St for Sleeves.

LEFT SLEEVE
With straight needles, cast on 47(47-50-50-53-53) sts. Work in ribbing same as back for 1”, end on WS, inc 3 sts evenly across last row – 50(50-53-53-56-56) sts. Keep 1 st at each side in Garter St and remaining sts in Pat St for Sleeves. AT THE SAME TIME, inc 1 st each side EVERY row 1(1-1-3-4-6) times – 52(52-55-59- 64-68) sts. Work even until sleeve measures 3” from beg, end on WS.
Note: Due to the shaping of cap (see schematic), decs are worked at each edge differently from each other.
You must keep track of each edge separately. Please read through this entire section before starting to knit.
Shape Raglan Cap: Bind off 5(5-6-6-7-7) sts at beg of the next 2 rows – 42(42-43-47-50-54) sts. Dec 1 st at beg of RS rows every 4th row 11(11-12-9-10-8) times, then every RS row 4(4-3-9-9-13) times. AT THE SAME TIME, dec 1 st at end of RS rows every 4th row 8(8-11-8-8-6) times, then every RS row 7(7-4-10-11- 15) times. When all decs at end of RS rows have been completed, continue to work decs at beg of RS rows
and AT THE SAME TIME, bind off 4(4-5-3-4-4) sts at beg of the next WS row, then 4 sts at beg of the next 2 WS rows.

RIGHT SLEEVE
Work to correspond to left sleeve, reversing shaping of raglan cap. Work decs given for beg of RS rows at end of RS rows and decs given for end of RS rows at beg of RS rows. When all decs at beg of RS rows have been completed, continue to work decs at end of RS rows and AT THE SAME TIME, bind off 4(4-5-3-4-4) sts at beg of the next WS row, then 4 sts at beg of the next 2 WS rows.

FINISHING
Sew raglan sleeve caps to raglan armholes. Sew bound-off edges of neck extensions tog. Sew inner edges of neck extensions to top edges of sleeves and back neck edge with seam at center back neck. Sew side and sleeve seams.

Diagonally Knitted Vest

This vest/shell is "da bomb!" Knitting diagonally, with this yarn will cause heads to turn!

Diagonal knitting is a wonderful way to use up odds and ends, as gauges
don’t need to match exactly and neither do back, front and
sleeves. Our sample shell uses lots of different size 3 yarns for a
fun, gradated look. Here are some hints for succesfully knitting on
the diagonal:
• Garter stitch is the easiest, because the stitch to row ratio is
1:2. A typical garter stitch gauge might be 4 sts and 8 rows
per inch. To make a square (90⁰) angle, one stitch at each end
should be increased every two rows (every other row).
• Stockinette is tougher, as the stitch to row ratio is closer to
2:3. A typical stockinette stitch gauge might be 4 sts and 6
rows per inch. If increases were made every other row as
for garter, the angle would be wider than 90⁰, and any seam
would twist around the body instead of being vertical.

So forstockinette stitch, increase at each edge for two consecutive
rows, then work one row even with no shaping. That gives a
six row repeat:
Row 1: K and increase.
Row 2: P and increase.
Row 3: K.
Row 4: P and increase.
Row 5: K and increase.
Row 6: P and increase.
• Make increases in the first stitch, and in the next to last stitch
to balance them. Make increases by knitting in the front, then
in the back of each stitch.
• Always measure along the selvedge edge, not from the corner
to the needle.
• Once you have reached the dimension you want, shape
the other corners by decreasing: work ssk or ssp at beg of
appropriate rows and k 2 tog or p 2 tog at end of appropriate
rows, depending on whether you are working garter or
stockinette stitch.
• If you want a piece that is longer than it is wide, work to
the width, then continue to increase at one end while you
decrease at the other end. Do this for as long as the piece
needs to be, then begin decreasing at both ends. Once you
begin to increase at one end and decrease at the other, even
if you are working stockinette stitch you can work every other
row without throwing the corners out of square. Whether you
increase or decrease at the beginning or end will determine
what direction the stripes will run, which becomes important
when trying to match fronts and backs.

Sizes: S (M, L, XL)
Finished bust approx 40 (44, 48, 52)”
Body is slightly oversized to allow for drape.

Materials: approx 700 (800, 900, 1000) yds size 3 & 4 yarns,
plus 80 yds trim yarn
Used here a variety of Prism size 3 & 4 yarns, including:
Dazzle,Super Dazzle, Tulle, Trieste, Frost, Azalea, Bon Bon, Tencel, Pinot, Flirt, Cleo, Sushine
In colors that include:
Harvest, Blue Lagoon, Captiva, Orchard, Mojave, Arroyo
Needles size 8 or size to get gauge
Crochet hook size E & F
Gauge: In garter st alternating 3 yarns of 1 row each:
18 sts & 34 rows = 4”

Note: Gradated color blending is easy. Before beginning, lay all yarns
out lightest to darkest. If you have purchased a kit, the skeins are
already labeled A, B, C, etc. Label your own custom choice as needed.
3 different yarns are used for 1 row each:
CO with A; drop A and attach B; k 1 row B; drop B and attach C; k 1 row
C and A is waiting for next row. To keep yarns from tangling, place one
ball on either side and one ball between your legs, and watch when
you turn the work: one direction tangles, the other direction does
not. Color gradation is achieved by working A, B, C for a few inches,
then B, C, D, then C, D, E and so on, arranging colors loosely from light
to dark. Work front as mirror image of back (begin from other corner).
Work back first, then work front approximating color placement—it
doesn’t have to match exactly. Work more rows of yarns with more
yardage, even if it means that sometimes a yarn is used for longer
than its rotation. As you work, check remaining amounts of yarn
and make any adjustments. Don’t worry about breaking the rotation
and repeating a yarn if needed—we did! We had 9 different yarns,
labeled A through I. Adjust measurements below if you have more
or fewer yarns.

Back: With A, CO 3 sts. With B, inc 1 in first st, k to end. With C,
inc 1 in first st, k to end. Inc in the first st on all rows. Make all
measurements along selvedge edge, not from corner to needle.
Work A, B, C to approx 6 (7, 8, 9)”, then drop A and add D. Work B,
C, D to approx 12”, then drop B and add E.
Work C, D, E to approx 17”.
Work D, E, F to 20 (22, 24, 26)”, then cont on D, E, F, beg dec: work
to end of row, k 2 tog last 2 sts. Measuring from 1st decrease, cont in
D, E, F to approx 3” from corner.
Work E, F, G to approx 8”.
Work F, G, H for to approx 14”.
Work G, H, I to approx 20 (22, 24, 26)”: When 1 st remains, fasten
off.
Front: Repeat as for back.

Finishing: Sew shoulder seams, leaving approx 7 (8, 8½, 9)” open for
neck. Sew side seams, leaving approximately 3-4” open at hem for
side slit. With trim yarn, work 1 row sc and 1 row rev sc around hem
and slits, and around neck and armhole openings.