Toe-Up Socks Instructions

Here's the instructions for knitting socks toe-up. I've had so many requests...so here it is... thanks Fran!

Materials: Two circular needles in one to two sizes smaller than recommended on ball band, two stitch markers and a tapestry needle.

Sock Yarn
 Sock-weight yarn: Approx 350yds, knit at 7-8 sts/inch
 Sport-weight yarn: Approx. 300 yds, knit at 6.5-7 sts/inch
 Dk-weight yarn: Approx 250 yds, knit at 5.5-6-5 sts/inch
 Worsted-weight: Approx 200 yds, knit at 5-6 sts/inch

Note: Exact yarn quantities will depend on your stitch pattern, foot size, and sock length. Quantities given are for a pair of socks that will fit a Women’s size 9 foot, with an 8” cuff.

Techniques
Make one: to make a M1, using the left hand needle, pick up the bar between the stitches from front to back. Using the right hand needle knit this bar through the back loop.

Judy’s Magic Cast-on:
http://knitty.com/ISSUEspring06/FEATmagiccaston.html
Cat Bordhi’s demonstration of the magic cast on: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhBIS0AhhQY

Directions
Here are some simple steps required to make toe up socks for any size foot. You will be determining a few simple measurements in order to use the worksheet.
Gauge- Knit a swatch using a needle 1-2 sizes smaller than recommended. You want your swatch to be a firm, tight knit (no day light!). You may knit your stockinette swatch flat but add a ½ stitch per inch for a final gauge.

Gauge: ______stitches per inch

Foot circumference (measure the ball of the foot): _______inches
Multiply foot circumference by Gauge: ______stitches
***for a snug fit, multiply by 0.9 ***

Adjust the number of stitches as desired to work with a chosen stitch pattern. We will be working a 2x2 rib so we will need to use multiples of 4. This will be known as the “Key Number”. It is the number of stitches on which most of the sock will be worked, and the other numbers, which follow, will be calculated from this number.


Key Number: _____ (A)

Determine the number of stitches on each needle after toe increases is completed: Divide A by 2: _____ (B)

Determine number of stitches cast on each needle for toe: Multiply B by 0.4 ______(C)

Measure length of foot: _____ (D)

Record your results here:

A: ______ Key #

B: ______# of sts on each needle

C: _____# of sts cast on each needle

D: _____desired length of foot


Toe:
Using Judy’s Magic cast on, cast on ____(C) stitches onto each needle. Using the make one increase method (or you favorite increase method) increase every other round on each end of the needle until you reach ______stitches (B).
Your increases should be knit as following: knit 1, increase, knit to last stitch, increase, knit 1. Repeat for second needle.

Note: If you are using sock weight yarn on# 0 or a # 1 needle, you may want to increase the number of even rounds between the increases rows to create more length for the toes.

Begin Foot:
Continue knitting on _____ (A) stitches until your sock measures 2/3 of (D) ______. If desired, knit for an additional one-half inch to allow for ease.

Begin Heel:
Heel is worked in rows on ______ (B) sts. (One needle only!) Knitting the heel this way may seem unusual at first. On a “cuff down” style sock, the heel flap is at the back of your foot, but with this method, it runs under your foot.

Heel Bottom Pattern:
Row 1: Slip 1, knit across
Row 2: Slip 1, purl across
** End with a knit row.
Work in heel bottom pattern until the heel flap reaches the edge of your heel (or total length of foot), Try your sock on! If your ankle is particularly deep, you may need to add additional heel flap rows. Remember: turning the heel will not add any additional length to the sock.

Turn Heel as Follows:
The formula for turning the heel on a sock is very simple. Using _____ (B), divide in half and add 2_____ (E).

Turn Heel
Row 1: P_____ (E) sts, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 2: Sl1, K 5 sts, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 3: Sl1, P across to 1 stitch before the “gap”, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 4: Sl1, K across to 1 stitch before the “gap”, k2tog, k1, turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been knitted, finishing with row 4.

Gusset
To start the gusset, we need to do a few more easy calculations.
 Count the remaining # of stitches on the needle used to turn heel______
 Subtract this # from (B) ______
 Divide results by 2 _____(F)
Set Up for Gusset
 Slip spare needle into slipped stitch (outside loop only) on left side of heel flap
 Knit into the back of the loops, remembering to place a marker after _____ (F) stitches are knit. Continue until all stitches are knit on the heel flap.
 Knit across instep stitches using other needle. Remember this needle only holds the instep stitches.
 Slip spare needle into slipped stitch (outside loop only) on right side of heel flap
 Knit into the back of the loops (using the needle that is holding the other heel flap stitches), remembering to place a marker before the last ______ (F) stitches are knit.
 Knit all stitches on both needles stopping at the end of the instep stitches.


Gusset Decrease & Heel Back Patterning
We will be knitting a pattern for the heel between the markers and decreasing for the gusset at the same time.
Round 1
 (using needle holding heel sts) K1, SSK, Knit to marker, sm, *Slip 1, Knit 1* repeat to marker, sm, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
 (using needle holding instep sts) knit across sts.
Round 2
 Knit all stitches on both needles
Continue in this manner until total stitches equals ______ (A).
Before starting the cuff, (and if there’s yarn to spare) knit a few rounds of stockinette st to separate the heel back patterning and the ribbing for the cuff.
Cuff
Knit to desired length using a 2x2 rib pattern.


Elizabeth Zimmerman’s Sewn Cast off
Break yarn, leaving a tail about 4 times as long as the circumference of the sock. Thread a tapestry needle.
*Sew forward (right to left) through two stitches as if to purl, leave the stitches on needle. Sew backward (left to right) through one stitch as if to knit and remove the stitch. Repeat from * until you run out of stitches. Work in tail on the inside of the sock and trim any excess.